Monday, September 1, 2025

A New View: Transforming Intimidation Into Inspiration




Introduction


We’ve all been there: Sitting there, full of self-doubt and anxiety at the mere thought of creating a new piece that intimidates us, perhaps even intimidated by arting altogether. Maybe somehow our confidence got shook, maybe we’ve taken a too long a break from arting and we feel rusty, maybe we think we’ve bitten off more than we can chew, maybe other artists seem to have raised the bar beyond our assumed capabilities, maybe we’re trying a new medium or process…any number of reasons can put us here. The hard truth is though that self-doubt is part of the arting process because we’re human after all. It’s just something we have to live with and work through, time and again. Yet it can interfere with our inspirations and motivations, raising its ugly head sometimes in unpredictable ways, and so we must be ready to fight for our creativity to prevail. And your arting is worth the fight! Your art is singular in all of space and time, always novel and always fresh. Conformity may be a real social pressure, assembly lines crank out homogeneity, and fast food specializes in uniformity, but your art is absolutely unique in all existence from the beginning to the end of time. Think about that for a second, how important and special that is. Don’t knock it and never forget it!


In the spirit of salvaging that specialness inside of you then, let’s explore some ways to convert that intimidation into inspiration, into a driving motivation that railroads right over that roadblock, with energizing joy and unstoppable enthusiasm. So let’s just get right into it!…


The Strategies 


It’s often recommended that you study the work of others to gain some insights and inspiration from the challenges met in other works. And that’s very good advice, granted. However, indulge this too much or in the wrong frame of mind and instead you’ll find yourself intimidated and feeling like you come up short. “Comparison is the death of joy,” said Mark Twain, and he was absolutely right. So be sure to spend more time creating your own art rather than looking at the work of other artists. Stop doom scrolling through studios! Your energy is best spent immersed in your own studio, cranking out your unique vision rather than punishing yourself. Remember that you have your own unique magic — you don’t need the magic of anyone else! Your magic is just as legit and wondrous, so embrace it and never take it for granted. Root yourself there and you’ll provide a rich, nurturing bed for your inspiration to grow and flourish.


Break the process down into baby steps, into achievable, realistic goals. Our art form is pretty demanding, and so many of our methods are complicated and quite labored, and therefore rather intimidating, even mystifying, especially for beginners. But if we simplify things in a step-by-step way rather than having to take it in all at once, we can really make the whole kit n’ kaboodle a lot more logistically accessible. Also try this visualization trick — imagine yourself completing the task three steps ahead. That sorta gives you a pre-loaded reward for a job well done and can really help to keep your motivation fueled forwards.


Are you struggling with a fear of failure? Worried the outcome won’t match your expectations? Crippled by perfectionism? Welcome to life as an artist. The vision in our head is almost always better than the finished product — that’s just how visions work. Plus, we aren’t Nature so we can't create absolute technical authenticity, a perfect horse, no matter how hard we try. Only DNA can do that. Then we have our blindspots and knowledge gaps because that’s a function of our perception, plus there's our insecurities, biases, and quirks because we’re fallible human beings. It all stacks up into this truth: "Perfection" is a moving goalpost so ease up chasing it. Give yourself permission to be you. And that’s what makes art so fascinating, vibrant, beautiful, and human, doesn’t it? The truth is, too, no artist ever is truly fully satisfied with their work. It’s that “divine dissatisfaction” that Martha Graham spoke of. It’s simply the nature of arting. Plus, at some point down the road, growth will happen and we’ll look back on our previous works and inevitably see areas that could have been done better or differently. There's no getting around that. "It's an inevitability, Mr. Anderson." So rather than letting that fear of failure stop us, just jump in and create art anyway! Darn the torpedoes and just dive in, head first, embracing the uncertainty in the spirit of exploration, creative joy, and learning. So rather than fixate on perfection and all the anticipated flaws in our work, fixate instead on discovery and curiosity. Because — yeah — we’re going to make mistakes. That’s simply the nature of creating art, making mistakes. It’s how we learn, it’s how we improve, it’s how we grow and stretch. In this light then, mistakes are really our best pathways to progress, aren’t they? So just make them and fix them as you go! That’s the beauty of art and mistakes — you’re the creator, right? You can un-create and re-make anything you concoct! You always have re-dos at your disposal! "The most valuable thing you can make is a mistake  you can't learn anything from being perfect," said Adam Osborne, and he's spot on. "And when you get over that fear of making a mistake, then it becomes fun," revealed Bob Ross. Right on the money! So never be afraid of making a mistake or of pulling up short because if you allow all that to take over, you won’t art at all, will you? “Fear kills more dreams than failure ever will,” said Suzy Kassem, and she’s absolutely right. So work through that discomfort to find that moxie inside of you and just go full bore — you owe it to yourself. And even more, you owe it to your art. Your art is depending on you to make it real, waiting patiently inside of you, eager. So go forth and create the awesome! Worry about everything else later. 


Recommended reading: 

The Perfectionist Paradox

Demonslaying Parts I-VI

Moving Forwards With Fear

Vision Conniptions: Managing Our Mind's Eye In Art


Fear of criticism is a real art-stopper, no doubt. I actually know some would-be artists who don’t art simply because of their fear of negative feedback, of public opinion. “There is nothing more vulnerable than creativity,” said Brené Brown. She goes onto also share, "Vulnerability is the birthplace of creativity. To create is to make something that has never existed before. There is nothing more vulnerable than that." So laying ourselves bare is literally a prerequisite. And that makes arting a precious yet precarious proposition, doesn’t it? Really, every day all artists wrestle with this phenomenon in some way, especially when they debut new work or post in-progress images. Truly, the visceral reaction the public has to our work can truly kick us in the gut in a literal way. It can be devastating. It can be art-ending for some. “Creativity takes courage,” said Henri Matisse. Indeed. A lot of it. Brené further reveals, “There's no such thing as creative people and non-creative people. There are only people who use their creativity and people who don't. Unused creativity doesn't just disappear. It lives within us until it's expressed, neglected to death, or suffocated by resentment and fear.” Don’t let this happen to you — be brave. It’s hard, and make no mistake, it never gets easier. The public is the public and there’s no taming that shrew. But you can still construct a creative life that’s joyful and fulfilling regardless, so focus on your fishbowl, on your bubble, and nevermind the rest. As Georgia O’Keeffe wisely said, “I have already settled it for myself so flattery and criticism go down the same drain and I am quite free.” That’s the creative headspace we need to dwell in, that detached centerpoint where our own opinion of our work is really the only thing that matters. If we love it, if we love creating it, if it brings us joy and satisfaction, who cares about the rest, right? It’s just noise. And never forget this: For every malcontent out there, there are many others who like your work so focus on them instead. Honestly, those dissing your work are probably not even your collectors anyway, are they? So why waste energy on paying attention to them when that energy is better spent on your actual collectors. So hold this quote from Brené Brown close to heart: “If you aren’t in the arena also getting your ass kicked, I’m not interested in your opinion.” Bingo! Create for yourself first. As Rick Rubin wisely advises, "The audience comes last." So reframe affirmation away from what people think about it and towards what satisfaction you derived from creating it and you’ll have an unstoppable surge of inspiration and motivation sweep over your efforts. You are more talented than you know and more capable than you think, so find your courage not only for your sake, but the sake of your art. Never let someone’s ugliness tarnish your shine—glow bright! And really, that’s the best rebuttal to any criticism isn’t it? Simply living your best creative life to the fullest, so toss those curls and art on!


Recommended reading:

The Critic in the Creative Space

Pickled Art

Arting In A Bubble: An Empowering Way To Create Art


Recommended listening:

The Power Of Vulnerability - Brené Brown

Why Your Critics Aren't The Ones Who Count - Brené Brown

Your Elusive Creative Genius - Elizabeth Gilbert

Success, Failure And The Drive To Keep Creating - Elizabeth Gilbert


On the other hand, for some it’s a very real fear of success and the insidious imposter syndrome. Was the success a fluke? Can you keep up that standard that made you famous in the first place? Or are you just a one-hit wonder? Anticipating disappointment is a powerful brew of trepidation and insecurity, yet even the most confident artists can wrestle with it from time to time. It’s a very human condition, indeed. But it’s also what keeps us hungry and stretching, doesn’t it? Spin it in that light and instead it becomes useful fuel, a mechanism of progress, exploration, and innovation. Honestly, it’s good to not be completely confident and comfortable in what we’re doing. It’s good to have a dose of uncertainty and doubt. It inspires us forwards as only it can, seeking exploration and the limitless edges of our potential. So rather than worry if you’re a one-hit wonder, if what you accomplished was only an accident — really, who cares? Does arting bring you joy? Does it fulfill essential parts of you? If so, that’s all that matters, isn’t it? Again, just darn those torpedoes and forge ahead, full steam! Everything else really is useless noise. And wabi-sabi, baby! Truly then, when we create from this position of power, we’ll find a new kind of detachment that ushers in a new confidence, authority, authenticity, and freedom that engages us with our arting even more. Honestly, when we no longer care whether we “succeed” or “fail,” whatever that means, and just do art, new and better gears are engaged that actually improve our entire experience and sometimes even our outcomes. "Don't think about making art, just get it done. Let everyone else decide if it's good or bad, whether they love it or hate it. While they are deciding, make even more art," said Andy Warhol. Yes...just make your art! That's always the right answer.


Recommend reading:

Redefining Success: Some Thoughts On True Accomplishment 


If you’re stuck, rather than take on some grandiose project with a lot of stops and starts, instead make arting a creative routine, even if just for 30 minutes a day in small bites. By creating a deliberate habit, by purposely setting aside time for it, that forces you to engage with your art to get those gears gearing. And that’s the important bit because the truth is inspiration has to find you working! If you simply wait for inspiration to strike, you’ll probably be waiting a long time. Because that’s not really how it works. See, the big secret with inspiration is that working generates inspiration, not the other way around so much. Sure, that Muse can strike us out of nowhere, but the thing is, it’s the work itself, the act of arting, that causes a lot more unlimited inspirations to well up inside of us. One idea feeds on the next and if we’re really feeding that mechanism, it can spin out of control into an inspirational clusterbomb of new ideas that fill up our sketchbooks as we try to capture them all. So if you’re feeling uninspired — do art. If you’re feeling stuck in your creativity — do art. Creating your art is always — always — the correct answer to the problem.


Feeling a little burned out? A bit uninspired? Tired of what you’re doing? Well, try something new! Feed your curiosity! Absolutely, trying a new medium or process, exploring a new body type or breed, delving into novel new compositions and concepts, or playing around with any number of experimental approaches can reignite that inspiration patiently waiting inside of you. In that spirit then, think about taking classes and workshops, or go on an artist retreat or art-based trip. There are few things that are more rejuvenating for art than exploring new creative territory! It’s often just the ticket to firing up that artistic bonfire, full ablaze! And the new thing doesn't have to be obvious either...anything creative will do! So, for instance, if making enameled jewelry has piqued your interest lately — do it! The point is to just get those creative gears going in any direction! And remember, any form of creativity counts! Beading, photography, wheel clay throwing, journaling, sewing, flatwork, writing, bookmaking, cosplay, gardening, cooking, creative writing, music, jewelry making, candle making, soap making, scrapbooking, stained-glass — all of it counts. And don't worry about it! Everything else will come later, but in this moment, "follow your bliss" as Joseph Campbell would say.


Establish new goals with your art insofar as let your art create and develop new connections, experiences, achievements and such rather than always focusing on just getting better at the craft. When we make art also about what art can do for us and for others, it becomes bigger and more engaging, doesn’t it? In that light then, think about writing informative articles or blog posts to help others along in their artistic explorations. Consider hosting a class or workshop or demo. Create educational videos or podcasts. Make your art about more than simply the process of arting, make it about the experience of living an artistic life, too, in the spirit of helping others with their creative experiences. And honestly, there are few things that’ll expose a gap in your knowledge base than having to teach or write about it! What a tremendous opportunity to delve into continued learning which can certainly reenergize your inspiration, huh? Likewise, think about answering a question with your art, like “what if…?” or “Why would…?” or “Maybe if that…?” When we reframe our motivations away from “it has to be perfect” and more towards an exploratory answer to a pointed question, when we design our work based on curiosity rather than carping, our paradigm shifts into something a bit less draconian and pressurized which can really help quell intimidation. Reorienting our efforts towards being a learner also asks us to be more forgiving of ourselves and our efforts and therein lies the license to stretch more in any direction, accelerating this effect.


Indulge in a no-pressure, all-fun fresh creative outlet, even one wildly different than our demanding and unforgiving art form. For instance, I regularly visit a paint-and-sip place for two low-key hours of super fun, no pressure creative play. With no real expectations other than enjoyably smearing pigment on a canvas, this sort of thing is wonderful escapism, like an engaging artistic mini-vacation that allows me to surprise myself once and a while. Likewise, I approach my NaReViMo horses much the same way. They’re pure creative escapism with very little pressure for perfectionism placed on myself, resulting in a lighter, more low-key experience that’s nice to indulge every August. They're really kinda like customized doodling, that level of casual, exploratory fun in 3D. And here's the thing: Doodling has been proven to be highly beneficial in many ways, including revving up the creative drive and sustaining it. Because not everything you create has to be a masterpiece! Quit putting that kind of pressure on your creativity! Sometimes it just wants to mess around rather than run an F1 race every time out. Give your creativity room to breathe, to play, and relax. Let it futz around and find out. Because, absolutely, doodling is still art, art that's full of a unique energy and novelty that makes it so immediate, revealing, exploratory. And doodling can do a lot to inspire new concepts and directions — so doodle to jumpstart new compositions! Why? Because you’ll find that once that energy of arting takes over, even in the simplest terms, it regenerates itself and primes the pump, melting away many intimidations or hesitations you may be suffering. Arting simply inspires more arting like a perpetual motion machine and if those gears are humming along again with no-pressure creativity, we remember what that feels like, don’t we? We experience those wonderful feelings again of simply playing around with our creativity, and what sort of fear stands a chance against that? And when we learn to surprise ourselves again, our confidence grows, our moxie increases, and our boldness bursts forth to bash right through any intimidations that were holding us back. Even better, this inspires our curiosity which then ignites our imaginations, and new inspirations aren't far behind in that triggered mechanism!


When you start to feel intimidated or fearful in your arting, also just remember that nothing is precious. In other words, everything is often changeable in your artwork and anything about your process and therefore your outcome can be altered. You don’t have to be married to any decision most of the time. You can indeed change your mind and you can alter any aspect of your piece in most cases. “Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts,” said Winston Churchill. Always leave yourself open to changing your mind — it’s okay.


On that note, if you feel weighted down by negativity stopping your creativity, understand the negative bias hardwired in our brains. It may be persistent, yes, but it doesn’t tell you the truth. What is this? It’s the feedback system that forces us to fixate on those negative experiences that may have impacted our survival in our distant past. But while it may have served us well previously in evolution, today when it comes to art—wow—is it a burden. How so? Well, it compels us to focus on the few nasty comments that invariably pop up to the exclusion of all all else, even amidst all the kudos and congratulations we earn. Then it replays those negative comments in our heads on repeating loop, louder than the positivity. So even if our public response is 99% praise, that 1% will stick with us stronger, creating a seriously skewed sense of achievement. In short, the negative bias gives us a mistaken idea of where we stand, and gosh, that can be crippling! As such, it’s often just a better idea to ignore comments all together, if possible, or find a way to process that 1% out of your life with coping mechanisms. Being so, pruning haters or other problematic people from your social media with blocking or filters is a smart move, too. Point being, the amplification of negative feedback in your head is simply an automated system not aligned with creativity. It’s meant for bare bones survival, not for something like subjective, sensitive, and mercurial arting. Keep it in perspective then so focus on all the kudos instead, all the positivity coming your way. It’s not only more worthy of your attention, but it’s healthier for you and your art as well. And never forget, critics don't hold some secret knowledge! They aren't exclusively more "in the know." They simply have their opinion which is as disposable in the grand scheme of things as yesterday's garbage. They don't know your Truth and they have their own knowledge gaps, blindspots, and biases, and so they aren't infallible. So never get lulled into the notion that they know The Right Way. See here's the thing: In art, there are many Right Ways, including yours, which is actually more valid and legitimate than anyone else's....because you're the artist. Your Vision simply overrides that of everyone else when it comes to the nature of your own work. This is your art, your rules, so don't hand anyone power who has no business in that equation. Because only you know the Truth of your experience and your Vision so stay true to it and yourself, and you're well on your way to re-finding your creative joy!


We all know we’re our own worst critic, right? No one is more brutal than we are on ourselves most times. So always be very careful with the pressures you put on yourself because if you aren’t, you can soon find yourself trembling in a proverbial corner, all trepidation and little motivation. Ease up on yourself, you're doing better than you think. To that end, never forget that every artist has bad days and good days, bad weeks and good weeks, bad months and good months. Things can ebb and flow so give yourself room for grace. See, when you loosen up and allow yourself to engage your art in a more low-key, less pressured way, too, the fun will start to peek out — grab it and go with it. Creating art should first be fun, not created in a pressure pot! So if you start to feel intimidated by your own expectations, find the fun parts of your process and focus on those more and reward yourself for every little triumph. And don't forget, there's no such thing as "perfection," that's an illusion. All there truly is is your best effort but only you have the autonomy to decide how far that goes, so make sure you exercise that judgment call in a healthy and compassionate manner with yourself.


Embrace the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi, the acceptance of imperfection and impermanence. Here we find more emphasis on experiencing the process of making our art, of living in the creative moment, rather than being so focused on the perfect outcome. We also give ourselves room to be fallible human beings once more, accepting the imperfections in our work as simply part of the magic of making art. Now yes, we work in equine realism where things have to be as technically correct as possible, but there's still room for grace for ourselves, isn't there? No one is creating perfect equines! Only Nature can do that. So go ahead and stretch for that brass ring, but don't fall off your proverbial carousel horse doing so. Hold on tight to those things about arting that bring your joy and enjoy the process of making your art just as much as your successful outcomes. The journey is just as important as the destination!


Recommended reading:

Wabi-Sabi and Realism: Strange Bedfellows


On that note, our art form entails a lot of long hours of hard work and that can be immensely daunting. So learn to embrace the process and revel in the doing, find peace in the methods and techniques. Even the tedium of sanding or ticking can be turned into a meditation rather than a chore. Also remember that creating art is a never-ending learning process and though it may not feel like it, you’re growing artistically right now. Every minute you're arting isn't just an opportunity to grow — you're automatically growing. Just study your art from years past to see your growth and improvement to see how that's happening, steady and sure, and find satisfaction in that. Really, things aren’t so dire when you can see that you are actually making some headway. You see, enlightenment and improvement don't just happen in big, flashy moments of epiphany, but also in lots of little imperceptible moments that pass right under your nose. So as you work, find satisfaction in the knowing that — yes — you are improving even though you may not see it today.


And lastly, when intimidation and fear seem to pummel you into the ground despite it all, always “find your way home” as Elizabeth Gilbert would put it. Really, if you love arting so much, dip into that innate love as a reservoir of compulsion. Like when you start to feel down about your creativity, pinpoint what motivates you with it in your guts and emphasize those aspects to the nth degree. Is it because you love your creations? Do you find the act of creativity calming? Do you do it for amusement and delight? Are you driven by an artistic compulsion? Are you interested in discovery and innovation? Does creativity fulfill you in a way no other outlet can? All of the above? Something more? Whatever it is, grab it by the tail and don’t let go! That fire of creativity within you needs stoking from time to time and often rediscovering our core drives can re-fuel our efforts in ways no other approach can. When we rekindle those core motivations then, there’s really no form or amount of artistic intimidation that can stand up to that essential power within us!


Conclusion


See, there are lots of strategies to bump us out of our doldrums or equip us to conquer our fears! We can conquer intimidation in a positive, empowering way. But the point to remember is this: It's all pro-active. It won’t just come to you. You have to put in the effort to knock yourself loose, to jostle yourself from being jammed up in your creativity. So put your shoulder into it! Really kick that proverbial door down! Being paralyzed by fear isn’t a fun place to be, especially for an artist otherwise eager to get to work. It can be a frightening, confusing, and frustrating place. But it’s not a place we need to be stuck in! We can find our way out with some of these targeted strategies like a map to a big, complicated maze. 


Because being intimidated in our creativity can be a complicated thing because being human is a complicated thing. Emotions, psychology, skills, pressures, physical limits, expectations, standards, public opinion, and all the rest congeal into a big weighty wad that can just sit on our shoulders and crush us into an inertial stupor. Honestly, something can seem so dreadful, we’re simply intimidated into inaction. But just remember to babystep, break everything down into chewable bites and chew, one bite at a time. When you’re wrestling with intimidation, the name of the game is creating a more friendly, creatively accessible process that makes things more doable, finish-able, and less-scary. Like if starting that custom just seems so unreachable, simply grab some sandpaper and sand some seams. Or if beginning that medallion feels beyond your abilities, just start warming up some clay and smooshing it around. Keep things super simple and achievable in tiny steps, and then you got this! Or, hey, maybe the perfection of that pristine OF finish or smooth untouched clay prevents you from "messing it up." Sometimes simply getting started can be the intimidating step! If that's the case...do something small to "mess it up," like take some sandpaper to that OF or squish that clay's surface. Deliberately make a mess of it. It can't be denied that arting is messy business and messier still is being human. So things are already a mess! Out of all that chaos and mayhem and exploration then can come something wonderful — that's the very nature of art in a nutshell.


Because is creative intimidation really such a bad thing? Think about it...look at all the good that can come out of it. Really, smoosh it all together and it can spur our progress and push us more, can't it? Like if we can morph daunting intimidations into pro-active challenges, we've just made ourselves one heckuva mechanism for progress! But perhaps best of all, intimidation asks us to always remember what best motivates us at our core; it reminds us of who we are as artists which is forever a great reflection to keep us centered and plowing forwards. The truth is then, when we always remember to “come home,” when we get really good at that, there’s absolutely no way intimidation can take up residence in that creative headspace and, as a result, we'll remain joyful and engaged despite anything scary that pops up. With that new view then, what better way to stay inspired than that? Something seemingly insurmountable can actually really just be an invitation, can't it? So get into your studio and morph intimidation into motivation! Transform it into something that fuels you rather than frightens you. It can be done, and all successful artists have found a way to do this with each new piece they undertake. The truth is, intimidation is simply as much a part as creativity as technique  it's normal and natural, even if you've been at this for decades. Undeniably, you'll always feel daunted, unsure, and self-doubting on some level with every new piece you start so learn to make it work for you. You owe it to yourself and mostly, you owe it to your art. There are pieces orbiting in your inspiration, desperate to come out, aren't there? They're begging you to find your moxie so they can manifest into this world, right? Well, here's the thing: What’s been brewing inside of you is some of your best work yet so take a big breath, buckle up, and let it all out! Yes, you can do it! And the irony is this: It's actually through the pathway of intimidation that we do this because every piece you ever create will be harrowing in some way if you're doing it right. Really, if you aren't periodically creating on the edge of your potential, where you literally feel like you're going to faceplant any moment, you just aren't stretching far enough. As such, it's through embracing our creative intimidations that we become those learner explorers again, the new view that fires up a fresh kind of fascination that compels tangible progress and revved up inspirations! Then how in the world can our self-doubt ever flourish in that blazing creative landscape? 


“Intimidation is a prerequisite to growth as an artist.”

— Cicely Tyson


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Thursday, August 21, 2025

Heads Up!: Artistic Guidelines for Sculpting the Equine Head



Introduction

Of all the aspects of the horse that could give a sculptor the most fits, it would probably be the head. My goshwhat a complicated structure! So many features, angles, alignments, shapes, landmarks, textures, and details to factor in, and then we have conformation and breed type complicating matters even more. And if that wasn't enough, horses have individual faces just like we do, and so each of our sculpted heads should be unique. And it's all crammed into a relative small, fiddly area. Is it any wonder then why so many artists pull their hair out as they sculpt one? 

Now I wrote a massive, 20-part in-depth series on the equine head in 2017 from a structural and functional point of view, "Heads Above The Rest." Parts 14, 15, 1617, and 18 are of particular interest as related to this post, being more geared more for artistic interests. Yet there are some additional artistic ideas we can learn and tricks we can apply that will make all this technical information a bit easier to translate into clay. So let's talk about a more artistic perspective now rather than such a clinical one. In this, we'll rely more on structural concepts rather than anatomical points to make these ideas more widely accessible across skill levels. So let's just dive in head first, shall we?

Brief Evolutionary Background of the Equine Skull for Perspective

The equine skull is large but nonetheless defined by efficiency—there's absolutely nothing about it that adds ornamentation or extra weight. This is due to the horse's evolutionary lifestyle: They eat abrasive grasses and run away fast in a straight line over long distances to escape predators. This is a grass eating, running machine. But the nutrients in grass are locked up in an abrasive silica shell (it's what keeps a blade of dead grass upright) that can only be released by being ground up into a mash to be processed by gut bacteria (in the cecum in the equine) into digestible nutrients the horse's body can absorb. And all that grinding of an abrasive substance necessitates a battery of large, constantly-growing long teeth. Grazing also requires a long diastema that projects the heads further forwards to nip off grasses while still keeping the eye high on the head to scan the horizon for predators. Put that all together then and we have the big, long head of the horse. However, the horse also has to be an efficient energy user to sustain a fast pace for a long time to survive predation, so a big head is actually a liability, right? So what's the solution? Well, no horns, antlers, or racks, and large sinus cavities to lighten the load, that's what. So the horse now has the benefit of a large, powerful jaw with big grinders and large sinus cavities for air intake but without the liability of a really heavy head that would slow him down. What's more, the head is predominately held up passively by the tension of the fan-shaped nuchal ligament, a powerful yellow ligament that lies deep inside the neck like a giant, robust rubber band. This means that horses expend minimal effort even holding their heads up, increasing efficiency even more. The horse is truly a marvel of evolutionary engineering! 

So what's the point? Well, evolutionary pressures shaped the horse's head a very specific way so it really doesn't have much plasticity without running into trouble fast. This is exactly why we don't see the extreme cranial variations as we see in dogs, for example. It also means that everything is there for a reason—nothing is superfluous. It's of a Spartan design that works purposely and beautifully. And this has implications for our sculpture, doesn't it? Indeed, when we veer too far into stylization, especially breedy stylization, we're aren't only compromising realism, we're also compromising the depiction of the animal's well-being. The head is the only means to intake air, water, food, sight, hearing, scent, and make vocalizations plus there needs to be room for all the roots of those big teeth. Aren't we obligated then to recreate it suitable for those biological needs first and "beauty" second? It's something important to consider.

Cranial Relationships and Alignments

Now let's look for structural relationships that can guide our hands with greater clarity. In this, we need a framework to build our head, something consistent enough to act as a template for the necessary comparisons but also allows for adaptability for all the variations out there. Even so, the equine skull does have some specific relationships that are universal despite all the variations based on breed, species, gender, age, and individuality. 
Now we've explored some in A Head Of The Pack: Basic Guidelines For Sculpting The Equine Head, and Structural Relationships: More on Equine Topography and Successful Sniffers: Tips For Sculpting Equine Nostrils, We're All Ears: Sculpting The Equine Ear, and Pleasin' Peepers: Sculpting The Equine Eye, some in The Three Ps, and some in that head series, specifically Part 14. Just please remember that while some associations are consistent anatomical alignments, others are only baselines, springboards for making the necessary adjustments as needed to fit the diversity we find in life. But we have to start somewhere, don't we? 


To that end, these are the universal alignments that don't really change with variation or conformation per se, being the most fixed:
  • The last molar sits just in front of the eye, about near the middle of the teardrop bone, while the first premolar sits about midway under the Buccinators. 
  • The back of the jaw should flow up to the back to its “button” underneath the zygomatics.
  • The ear canal is aligned with the zygomatic arches and the orbit.
  • From the front, we can form a "T" between the front canthi and the median line of the head. The same can be said for the tips of the teardrop bones, the nostrils (when symmetrically held), and the corners of the mouth (when symmetrically held). This helps us to maintain symmetry between the two sides of the face.
  • The orientation of the eye has two general planes. The first angles inwards at the bottom and outwards at the top. The second angles slightly inwards at the front canthus.
  • The top branch of the “Y” vein flows from the front canthus of the eye to the front of the teardrop bone while the second branch flows towards the nostrils.
  • When seen from the front, the skull forms an elongated and inverted isosceles trapezoid due to the narrower mandible and broad brows.  
  • The ears are set on the crown of the head, on the sides, seated into their cranial "cup" right behind the line of the jaw (rami) and behind the zygomatic arches on either side of the crown, in front of the occipital crest with the bulb and aligning with the EENA. This is perhaps the one of the most fixed anatomical features of the head, most consistent across the board.
  • From beneath, the jaw bars form an elongated triangle, widest at the rami to meet each other at the chin. They’re rounded, not sharply rimmed, and have an underline that represents the individual characteristics of the particular horse.




Now these alignments can serve as a starting point to develop your necessary variations because they have more individual variability:
  • From the front, the "V" at the bottom of the ear tends to sit on a plane parallel to the median to pass in front of the eyebrow flesh near the front canthi, depending on breed or individual variation. In other words, some breeds or individuals have wider or more narrow crowns which changes how close or far apart the ears are set.
  • The alignment of the ear–eye–nostril (EENA) often forms a straight line. Notice that the teardrop bone and the mouth generally parallel the EENA, too. However, the EENA can vary between individuals, breeds, or species because...
  • The internal axis of the skull is what tends to dictate head shape. Specifically, the equine head can be categorized into three basic types: (1) The arched or convex head, (2) the concave head, and (3) the straight head, with plenty of variation in between. What this means is that the axis of the head can be variable dependent on the individual, family, or breed, with a central axis being bent down, bent upwards, or straight, respectively speaking, beginning generally around the tip of the masseteric ridge. For example, many Iberian, Kladrubers, Murgese, Lippizzans, or Draft breeds can have a convex head in which the entire nasal portion of the skull drops downwards from the EENA, producing a distinctive “ram–head” appearance. In contrast, Arabians and some pony breeds may have a dished head in which the nasal portion is lifted slightly upwards from the EENA (though sometimes Arabians have a straight EENA but with a dished nasal bone and jibbah). In contrast, Morgans, Saddlebreds, stock breeds, and Thoroughbreds tend to have straight heads that more closely follow the straight line of the EENA. Now granted, there's a lot of diversity in all this, so regard those axis alignments as guides, not gospel. But it does mean that the shape of the head doesn't have to be created by the shape of the nasal bone alone, but also created deep inside the skull with its internal axis. This is why some sculptures that merely change the nasal bone without attending to the head axis may look odd. For example, they can appear too “dolphin-like” if a dish was created by gouging down the nasal bone with the added dome of the forehead. Sometimes we also see the jaw bars suffering reduction as well, making the head appear fluted, “seahorse-like,” or pinched in the middle (and when the nostrils are flared, we have an odd trumpet–like shaped head). On the other hand, a head can be made to be too deep if made to be more convex by simply adding a curve to the existing nasal bone. So remember to attend to the head axis first the deciphering references or sculpting.  
  • The anterior and posterior canthi of the eye are angled at an approximate 42˚– 44˚ angle to the EENA. However, different individuals or breeds may vary. 
  • The angle of the lower angle with the "button" of the zygomatic somewhat echoes this 42˚– 44˚ angle.
  • Seen from the top of the head, looking down on it, the eyes are angled about 33˚ to the median line of the head. However, some breeds or individuals have more or less of an angle.
  • When seen from the front (nose on), the top rim of the eye often protrudes a snidge farther out whereas the bottom rim of the eye often dips a snidge farther in, causing the plane of the eye to angle inwards at the bottom. However, some eyes can be more up-and-down due to natural variation, so look for that in your references and field study.
  • When seen from the front, the brows are usually the widest portion of the cranium, with the bulge of the eyes themselves usually the widest part of the head itself. However, in horses with narrower heads, their brows can be about as wide as the ear bulbs. Also the eyes of senior citizens can be more sunken due to reduction of the fat pad behind the orb. On the other hand, on some muscular stock breeds such as the Quarter Horse, the robust jaw muscles over the ramus may be the widest part of the head.
  • The chin usually ends somewhat near the back of the nostrils, or to varying degrees in front of it if they're droopy.
  • When seen from the front, the “V” at the top of the nostril, where the rims meet, is oriented more towards the median than the lower aspect of the back rim, which protrudes more outward. This puts the nostril on an inward slant towards the top, predominantly along the back rim. In contrast, the comma cartilages tend to orient more upright, often with an elegant inward curve in the middle. However, some individuals can have more uprightly angled nostrils or nostril movement can distort this angle, so look for it in life study and your references.
  • The zygomatics can exhibit some variety in how prominent and "cut" they are, so pay attention to all their diversity.
  • The bulbs of the ears and the brows of the eyes are about as broad as the wings of the Atlas bone though there is some variation with how wide or narrow the top of the neck is, so look for that in your references and life study.














Serve it all up, and these handy guides can help us in the shaping of our equine heads with a lot more clarity. For example, when we understand that the ear, eye, and nostril are important landmarks that are skeletally oriented, that gives us better use of the EENA template, doesn't it? Another thing to remember is that the head is mostly subcutaneous bone on the dorsal and ventral aspect, and mostly subcutaneous or partially subcutaneous fleshy muscle along the sides. For this reason, we need to sculpt the bony parts convincingly as bone and the fleshy bits as flesh; otherwise our head won’t be as believable as it could be. For instance, the hourglass–shaped nasal bone should appear hard while the cheek’s Buccinators should appear fleshy. In contrast, the ears, lower nasal bone, and comma cartilages are made of cartilage and should appear appropriately firm but bendy. For example, the ear flute itself is relatively thin, making the ear malleable and able to be bent and distorted easily. 

As for relative head width, that's a function of individual, breed, and even gender and age variation. For instance, Arabians tend to be quite broad across the brows whereas Iberians can be quite narrow. Likewise, foals can appear broad across the brows thanks largely to the contrast with their undeveloped, narrow lower faces. Likewise, stallion heads can appear broader due to their cranial muscular development whereas mares can seem more slender. Paying attention to head width is important since it plays such a big part in the believability of our sculptures. 

On top of everything, the equine profile can exhibit a spectrum of undulating characteristics distinctive to each horse. Indeed, each of our profiles are different and so are those of horses. So we need to pay special attention to the horse’s profile to capture breed type and individuality. Again, all this presses the issue of studying heads from multiple angles and using references from multiple views. Honestly, the more angles and dimensions familiar to us, the better we are at translating it all into our clay. Plus, the more references we work from, of different angles, the better success we have at trouble-shooting problems. On that note then, always use good reference photos and learn to see the anatomical structures underneath the skin. Also make ready use of protractors, rulers, and proportional calipers—they’re your best friends when sculpting the head. Above all, field study field study field study! Get out there and observe the real deal and snap your own photos.

Basic Cranial Landmarks

Much of the equine skull is subcutaneous bone or nearly so, and so the head owes most of its shape and size to the skull itself, providing plenty of landmarks to guide us. In other words, the skull isn't defined by fleshiness so much like a human face, but more by bone. This is probably because the equine head has been "telescoped" forwards to project the incisors forwards and to make room for the battery of big teeth needed for nipping and grinding grasses, "stretching" his face forwards below his eyes. Most of this space then didn't "fill up" with lots of flesh or muscle, but kept a more Spartan structure of fascia, hide, and bone with thin, strappy muscles. The only really fleshy muscles are on his cheek and jowl, and of course the fleshiness of this muzzle and around the orbit. But this is great news since it provides us with lots of cranial landmarks to map out his skull accurately. Heck, even the muscles are often so obvious, some can serve as landmarks as well. So for the skull itself, the most obvious landmarks are:
  • The masseteric ridge (teardrop bone)
  • The zygomatic arches
  • The Salt Cellar
  • The nasal bone (and its median groove)
  • The forehead (sometimes the temporal line, or the external frontal crest, can be felt, even seen on the forehead)
  • The poll
  • The jaw bars
  • The caudal rim of the jaw (rami)
  • The “button” underneath the zygomatics
  • At a point just in front of the jowls in the hollow between the jaw bars, we can feel the underside of the Basihyoid bone of the Hyoid Apparatus (the swallowing mechanism)








The cranial cartilages are also palpable:
  • The comma cartilages and its distal "button" at the end (sometimes we can even see it as a small bulge)
  • The ear flute
  • The ear bulb
Use all these landmarks as a connect-the-dots using the EENA as a guide, and you'll have a pretty good handle on the size, shape, axis, and structure of your sculpted head. Now here's the thing: The set of the eyes, the actual shape and length of the skull, the angle of the muzzle to the axis of the head, and the shape of the zygomatics can vary a bit from animal to animal based on individuality, breed, or species. However, remember that the set of the ears is an anatomical one so we can use that as a starting point to block out the rest of the head. So in sequence, think about blocking out the head thusly (you don't have to do the final sculpting of them yet, just get them in place:
  1. Length of head
  2. Axis of the head
  3. Depth of head at the jowl and bars
  4. Set of the ears based on the EENA and the back of the jaw
  5. Set of the eyes based on the EENA and the ear (which we'll discuss in a bit)
  6. Location of the nostril based on the EENA and the axis
  7. Teardrop bone, often somewhat parallel to the EENA
  8. Breadth of jowl
  9. Zygomatic arches and temporal line
  10. Angle of the mouth, often somewhat parallel to the EENA
Now maybe you have other methods that work for you better, but even so, think about checking your heads based on this sequence since it tends to map it out quickly and reliably. It's also a highly adaptable method for any kind of variation you find in life.

As for the teeth and gums, the front twelve incisors are easy to see if we lift the lips. The tushes are also easily seen from the side if inspecting a stallion or gelding (though sometimes a mare will have some or a full set). If we’re quick (and the horse is accommodating), we can even study the tooth surfaces of the incisors, too. The molars and possible Wolf’s Teeth (if present) are more difficult to see, so if we can observe a dental exam that uses a mouth speculum, it’s educational. Being so, we might even be able to catch a glimpse of the palantal drape, tongue, and the ridged hard palate.

The external aspects of the nostrils are easily palpated and observed. The front and back rims of the nostrils are evident as is the upper fold of the posterior rim over the anterior cartilage at the top "V" where the two rims meet. The tail of the comma cartilage can be palpated and sometimes seen as a subtle bump. The false nostril is abundantly clear when the horse flares their nostrils or snorts, too. The features on the muzzle can also be easily seen and felt from the lips to the chin to the whiskers (or just the whisker bumps if the whiskers have been shaved). The lips are easily seen and felt, and the corner of the mouth makes an important landmark. Likewise, the eye area can be gently felt from the eyelashes to the eyelids to the whisker bumps. The outer aspects of the ear flute, bulb, and its details are easily seen and palpated as well, even the medial and lateral crus of the medial helix.

Facial musculature can either appear as generalized, in moderate detail, or in "dry," crisp detail, depending on the breed, individual, management, climate, level of exertion, or circumstance. "Dryness" can also be expressed in different locations of the head with some areas in dry detail and others more generalized—it all depends on the individual and circumstances. Yet because the skull is mostly palatable under the skin, nearly every fleshy facial feature is a landmark, depending on how crisply it’s expressed. Yet six fleshy features are stand-outs as useful, relatively consistent orienting landmarks:
  • Quadratus labii inferioris
  • Levator labii sup. alæque nasi
  • Caninus s. pyramidalis nasi
  • Zygomaticus major
  • Buccinator
  • Masseter


All of these bony and fleshy landmarks help to guide our proportions, planing, and placements so we get things right. Really, the equine head is very precisely constructed so it's important to orient things properly. So continually recheck as you sculpt since things can go sideways rather quickly if you aren't paying close attention, especially if you become taken up in the magic of sculpting and lose sight of the big picture. In particular, sculpting expression tends to cause us to lose sight of the head's technicalities so keep those calipers and references close at hand and regularly recheck the EENA as you sculpt.

Basic Cranial Proportions

Because the equine skull has some common relationships, it also has another proportional set of baselines we can use to springboard into more adjustments as needed. Again, these are merely starting points to start creating our variations as needed for breeds, species, ages, individuals, and even genders. Even families within breeds can have their own cranial tendencies, so pay attention to that as well. So a few major proportional cranial relationships are:
  • The length of the head in front of the eyes is elongated—the horse’s head is stretched forwards in front of the eye. Because of this, the typical equine head is usually divided into thirds: (1) From the base of the ear “V” to the front canthus of the eye then (2) from that point to mid-head then (3) from that point to the end of the muzzle. However, different breeds and individuals can vary. This means you have a quick way to properly place the eye between the ear and the EENA. Just make sure you don't place your eye on top of the tooth roots, i.e. too low.
  • The depth of the skull from forehead to the bottom of the ramus is about 1/2 the length of the head, generally speaking. Some individuals or breeds may be more or less, and old horses are often less, especially through the bars, since their teeth have reached their terminal limit.
  • Ear length is about that one-third measurement, with variation of gender, breed, age, and individuality.
  • Muzzle depth is about that one-third measurement, with variation for breed, age, and individuality.
  • Jowl breadth is about that one-third measurement, with variation for breed, gender, age, and individuality.





Basic Cranial Variations

Variations are the norm rather than the exception! Individuality, breed type, family tendencies, species distinctiveness, gender characteristics, and age growth stages all factor into all this diversity. Even nutrition can affect cranial development, and the horse's condition can affect how the head looks as well. For instance, foals have infant cranial structure, being less developed and "softer" in definition. In short, they aren't simply shrunk down adult heads. On the other hand, the heads of old horses can be more slender through the bars since their teeth have reached their terminal limit, narrowing the head a snidge. Plus their heads can appear more gaunt and bony from their diminishing nutrition because of their terminal teeth.

Basic Cranial Visualizations

So from an artistic point of view, we can block out the equine skull into some artistic structural ideas or shapes to help us along. Indeed, breaking down the horse’s head into simple shapes can help us quite a bit. So with that in mind, here are some helpful associations:
  • The muscles of the mouth and cheek form a nested "M" and "W." However, the buccinators can be more like a solid wad of flesh or a slightly different configuration, too, depending on the individual's variation.
  • The nostril forms a “6” on the right side and a backwards “6” on the left side. 
  • The flute of the nostril forms a kind of "V" from the back of the posterior rim.
  • The front rim of the alar cartilage of the nostril forms a “C” when relaxed and more of an “L” on its side when dilated. 
  • The top aspect of the zygomatic arches is like a "U" oriented towards the poll while the lower aspect is like a "Y" oriented towards the ears.
  • From the top, the nasal bone should be centered on the median line, and often has a subtle hourglass shape with rounded sides. The narrow "pinch" in the hourglass shape often occurs at the ends of the teardrop bones.
  • The upper lip can be thought of as a little box that twitches, pooks, tweaks, stretches, and wiggles, being actively mobile.
  • From the side, think of the skull in three parts: The "box" for the ears, the circle for the upper head, and the "shoebox" for the lower face. 
  • From the front, we can think of the basic shape of the head is like a kite with a taila diamond for the forehead and the tail for the nasal bone.



Basic Ear Structures

I'm an ear geek so I pay very close attention to them when sculpting since they're just so darned complicated (and fun) to sculpt with their subtle curves and shapes. But not only is their structure complex, ear shapes are quite individualistic, too. No two pairs of ears are alike! What's more, ear size and shape can be a function of breed, gender, species, and age. For example, smaller, curvy ears are typical of an Arabian as is the pronounced curl of the Marwari. On the other hand, larger, longer ears are typical of a mare, and proportionally larger ears are common with foals. What’s more, some breeds actually require the ears to be a certain length such as the Shetland with ears that shouldn’t exceed 5” long (13cm). Also, the ears may be placed closer together on the crown on some breeds, too, such as the ASB, Kathiawari, Marwari and Akhal–Teke. This is usually caused by the narrower structure of the crown of such breeds as compared to the Arabian, Morgan, or Quarter Horse who tend to have wider crowns. So pay special attention to the varying attributes of the ear since all these factors play a part.








As for the ear itself, it's a delicately fluted “scoop" (pinna, plural: pinnae) with an inner (medial) rim that's more rounded and more deeply curvaceous with an outside (lateral) rim that's flatter and less curved. Of special note is the “V” where the two rims meet at the bottom since it has some interesting features. In particular, the bottom of the curvaceous medial rim, near the "V," has a curious fold created by the lateral and medial crus of the helix, which changes as the ear rotates, a detail often missed by artists. Instead, many artists simply make this area a straight rim by mistake, for instance. The ears have wrinkles, too, which are typically located where the pinnae meets the skull when rotation folds the skin. For example, when pricked forwards, wrinkles can be found between the pinnae and the head along the median line of the bulb whereas if they’re laid back, wrinkles can be found along the back of the bulb. The pinnae also often have visible veins, notably along the back of the flutes and around the ear bulbs, which really lend a sense of thin skin and fine hair for sculptures depicting hot bloods or even athletic effort. Now if the ears are clipped, note the soft, delicate ridges inside the ears. On the other hand, fuzzy, unclipped ears can be a wonderful touch for feral horses or those shown in a natural state. (Note: Some regulations now dictate against shaving out the ears.) Note that the ear hair is oriented inwards or forwards and not so much outwards, towards the rims. Also minor faults such as lop ears can add a bit of character to a piece meant to be eccentric. Likewise, ears with nicks, cuts, missing tips, etc. can imply an interesting backstory which can be effective for sculptures of feral horses, ranch horses, wild horses, or roughstock. In fact, certain breeds have specifically notched ears for identification such as the Icelandic Horse. Ear tags might also be a curious option, accurate for certain populations tagged for research. And because ears are a consummate tool for adding life to a sculpture, their expressive qualities go far to impart genuine equine character and narrative. For example, ears can be pricked and drawn together more when the horse is tense or intently focused on something, or drooping in a floppy “V" when the animal is sleepy, relaxed, or dozing off. They can be floppy and wobbly in response to motion, too, such as we see on some gaited horses (especially gaited mules), or when horses shake.


Other Thoughts on the Equine Head

Above all, remember the evolutionary biology of the equine head. It's a study of economy—every bit is there in a specific way for a critical biological reason. Being so, it has very little fudge–factor for our imposed aesthetics or misinterpretations. With so little room for error then, cranial structure cannot be fudged—we need to be clear about its construction to get it right. That's because so much about the equine head is literal with so much being subcutaneous flesh and bone. So if we make a mistake somewhere, that will likely develop into a systemic problem that will skew everything else. So check your placements against the EENA and the subsequent alignments often as you work.

Yet, at the same time, it's easy to get confused since so much is interlaced together, alternately becoming deep and superficial layers. It's also made up of all the fleshy components of the body: Bone, cartilage, fat, tissue, muscle, tendon, ligament, fascia, and hide, all of which are specialized for the head itself, giving us an array of structures and textures we have to mimic properly in a relative tight space. Plus, facial muscles come in multiple forms. For example, some are flat or strap–like like zygomaticus major while others have fleshy muscle bellies like the buccinators while still others are in-between like the masseter. And on a thin-skinned, “dry” face, much of the fleshy delineation is often readily seen, making precision even more important. So when recreating fascial musculature in clay, pay attention to these qualities when considering the shape and thickness of particular bits to avoid creating a head that’s too bulky, puffy, bulbous, or meaty, especially in the mid-face between the eye and nostril. What's more, pay close attention to detail and fleshy texture since the tiny aspects of the hide and skin on the face is so varied and often squishy and velvety. The ears, muzzle, and nostril exhibit a high degree of motility and sensitivity, too, and the brows and lower lid are fleshy and expressive, especially so with the upper lid and brow.  And thusly, we also have to consider expression which is a whole 'nuther subject in itself! 

All this conspires then to make sculpting the equine head especially tricky. Indeed, it's a part of the body most often flubbed up in sculpture for good reason. So it's a good idea to do lots of research, artistic exercises, checks and balances with proportional tools, life study, and of actually palpating the heads of many horses to program their features into our hands. 

Conclusion

Approaching the equine head from both an anatomical and artistic perspective can be helpful since each symbiotically informs the other. But being able to artistically understand things can be a more practical approach for a sculptor, allowing us to also "back trace" to the anatomy for another point of view. Truly, it's not enough to just know anatomy, we also have to translate what we know accurately into clay, right? That's where our artistry comes in. So while these two different knowledge bases need to be developed, they also need to be synced for the most effective interpretations in clay, and that takes its own special care and training.

For this reason, it's often handy to understand the equine head from multiple points of view. For example, from evolution to anatomy to conformation to breed type to viability to artistic visualizations and such, all of which conspire to give us a more rounded, complete view. Because, indeed, the head alone gives us plenty to chew on! And all the cranial features are interdependent, too, since we're also talking about a holistic system here. No aspect of the head functions as a biomechanical stand-alone. Therefore, understanding each feature separately as well as how it fits into the holistic whole isn't just informative, it's fascinating.

Because make no mistakewe need plenty of clarity when sculpting the horse's head. So much is going on in such a tight space and each aspect is completely dependent on the other for structure and placement that we have to hit our targets each and every time for it all to fit together properly. And that's the trick of itif we develop a system to plot out our head efficiently, everything should fall into place like a connect-the-dots or jigsaw puzzle, and then it's simply a matter of banging it all out. To get to that point then, it just takes a lot of study, visualizations, and practice practice practice. For that, try some artistic exercises like drawing EENAs and other alignments onto photo print outs, doing sketches, and sculpting quickie maquettes (in non-hardening clay) to get practical volume under your belt. Because sculpting the head may be difficult, but it does get easier the more of them you sculpt. You'll also become more comfortable infusing eccentricities into your heads as you become more familiar with plotting out its basic structures. Indeed, you may soon find yourself collecting references of novel heads that inspire you as your fascination and confidence grows.

The horse's head is probably the most important part of the piece to pin down accurately. As a visual specials, we humans home in on the face instinctively, don't we? We just naturally key in on the face. So when we learn to sculpt more accurate heads on our sculptures, we're actually maximizing the connectivity our work has with the viewer. Why? Because the more accurate our sculpted heads, the more people are drawn to them in a positive way, and that spells good things for how our work connects with people. Absolutely, the horse's face is a direct line to the horse lover's heart. Mimic that effectively in your clay then and your work will come very close to triggering that same happy response they would have with a real horse, and that's a potent connection that gets horsepeople right in the feels in the best way. And what better way to get ahead is that?

"Simple is never that simple."
~ Phillip Roth

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