Thursday, May 25, 2023

Measuring Proportion: Ahead Of The Game


Introduction

Back in 2015, I wrote Mapping Out Success: Equine Topography detailing my proportional measurement system I used for sculpture. No small matter either. Having a solid proportional system is really important for realistic sculpture, in fact, it's the very basis of realism itself. Indeed, everything we sculpt can literally be described as a function of proportional relationships. Get the proportional relationships right then and we create a solid sculpture almost by default, but get them wrong and there's no saving that sinking ship. So the more reliable the system, the better, but it should also be quick, easy, and highly adaptable to accommodate all our varied needs and subjects. Honestly, having an arduous or clumsy system won't compel us to apply it as often as we should when we work.

That being the case, over the years I've since refined that 2015 system by adding in some new measurements and altering how I relate them to each other, all of which works a lot better for me now. I don't use this just for sculpture though, but also for studying references with a lot of compare and contrast analysis. By doing this, you can develop a more robust mental library able to draw from more possibilities as you design your composition and make artistic choices as you work.

Landmarks

Knowing the body's bony landmarks can be really helpful for determining our proportional measurements because they entail fixed lengths of bone rather than variable lengths of muscle and tissue. As such, our reference points should really be based on the bony skeleton as much as possible for this reason. So knowing where those bones and the joints are located in the living animal can really make or break any proportional system. And, of course, the more precision we can apply, the better. So familiarizing ourselves with the palpation points and bony anatomy through field study, photo analysis, and diagram investigations can really help our process. (Incidentally, knowing the bony skeleton and the joints also helps us build our armatures with greater ease and accuracy.)





The Body

Using those palpation landmarks then, here's my updated proportional method:

Notice that everything is still based off the head measurement, as measured from the back of the ears at the poll to the tip of the upper lip. It’s from this measurement that all the others derive, which can be broken down into three-quarters, one–half, one–third, and one–fourth increments. From those then we can finagle our way to greater precision because they give us a place to start. I just find this tactic makes things far quicker, easier, and much more adaptable, things that are most welcome in the immediacy of actual arting. So, practically speaking, what I'll do is delineate my head measurement on my reference photo and then pre-measure and indicate the respective three-quarters, one-half, one-third, and one-fourth measurements so I can quickly refer to them with my calipers and the sculpture. 

As for calipers, I like to use my Prospek proportional calipers for on the fly measurements. It's cheap and easy to use, making it a steady partner in the studio. Then I may use a pair of locking calipers, fixed with the head length, for quick reference of the back and larger sections. (The key here is "quickly" because I often work in epoxy clays that have a cure time unlike oil clays or Sculpey which have open work times.) By doing this preliminary work, I now have all my measurements at the ready for quick reference.

Now let's talk about body width, or more specifically, chest width, a common question that comes up when it comes to proportional measurements. This is probably the most tricky measurement to gauge only because it's so variable and situational. That's to say, there's really no fixed standard measurement for the chest largely due to its anatomy. See, there's no bony connection between the torso and the scapulae. It's just muscle, fascia, ligaments, and tendons that lash the scapulae onto the body which means that chest width fluctuates with movement and conditioning. For instance, it can squish together with foreleg adduction or expand with foreleg abduction. Likewise, an overweight or heavily muscled animal will often have a wider chest than a svelte one and especially an emaciated one. Horses that wear weighted hoof stacks or "packages" on their fore hooves also tend to have wider chests simply due to the muscle conditioning from lifting that weight repeatedly. So here field study and lots of good references are going to be crucial to make our situational determinations for our sculpture because for the most part, we're just going to have to eyeball it best we can. But when we do measure, think about using the points of shoulder as the measuring points as their knobby bumps make for useful landmarks (the black dot in the diagram).

This now brings us to shoulder length, another tricky measurement also due to shoulder anatomy. Because there's no fixed, bony connection between the scapulae and the torso, this means the scapulae can slide fore and aft and up and down a bit, too, and everything in between. In practice then, this has the effect of "lengthening" the look of the shoulder as it slides forwards or downwards, or "shortening" the look of the shoulder as it slides backwards or upwards in relation to the fixed point of the top of the withers. And the more athletic, agile, and supple the horse, the more pronounced this movement. Again, lots of field study and analysis of good reference photos is going to be important here so pay attention to what the scapulae are doing in relation to the torso when you gather your measurements.

All in all though, it should be mentioned that these aren't idealized measurements, they're simply the measurements I take to start my process. In fact, this is a tracing of a typical Thoroughbred stallion so, absolutely, these proportions will change according to individual variation, breed, gender, and age. Always remember that proportional measurements aren't gospel but simply guides we tweak as needed to faithfully portray our specific subject. They're starting points only. Now yes, there are certain lengths that are preferred when it comes to conformation. For instance, having a long shoulder and hip, long forearms and gaskins with short cannons and what not, but that's beyond the scope of this article. Just keep in mind that when it comes to proportional measuring, you'll have to factor in conformation at some point, too.

The Head

As for the head, it's probably one of the most difficult things to sculpt when it comes to horses. You gotta admit, its many planes, angles, symmetries, and skeletal and fleshy structures offer a continual challenge to even the most seasoned sculptor. That being so, we can get confused and go off track even with the most painstaking diligence or even worse, become quickly overwhelmed and frustrated. And as humans who are visually oriented and sensitive to facial cues, we naturally zero in on the head immediately. If something is off then, that error can become rather distracting and compromise everything else we’ve gotten right. Luckily though there are some basic associations we can use as guides, as baselines that can guide our sculpting of any equine head with relative ease. And by providing a straightforwards architecture, a framework of sorts that helps to direct our sculpting, we gain more clarity and direction in what we’re doing. Even better, these baselines are universal regardless of the breed, species, gender, age, expression, or individual, and so we can apply them across the board to express any characteristic or eccentricity.



Just remember this: These guidelines should be used as a starting point from which to build those unique features your piece needs. In other words, think of these measurements as guides that you’ll need to tweak as needed. We need a place to start, right?  


This is the Ears–Eye–Nostril Alignment (EENA), a pretty simple alignment easily gauged with a straight edge like a pencil, ruler, or the long side of Prospek calipers. Going from the bottom of the ear bulb, past the bottom of the eye and to the bottom of the nostril, this is the alignment that not only helps us place the ears, eyes, and nostrils but also helps to determine a straight head, convex head, or concave head. For instance, many Thoroughbreds, Warmbloods, Saddlebreds, Mustangs…most horses…have a more or less straight alignment, or a straight head. There’s a bit of variation, of course, but for the most part, many types line up to a straight EENA pretty well. In contrast, sometimes this axis can be bent upwards, or convex, with the nostril dipping below the line as can may see with breeds with a convex profile such as many Iberians, Campolinas, Kladrubers, some drafters and such. In contrast, sometimes this axis can be bent downward, or concave, with the eye encroaching on this line. This kind of head can sometimes be seen with some Arabians, in particular, or other “dishy” heads. But this is why carving in a dish or simply adding a roman nose often doesn’t create such a convincing head type because we aren’t addressing the actual axis of the head. What’s more, notice that the teardrop bone somewhat parallels the EENA in part, too, a handy observation for refining its orientation on our sculpture. Regardless, use the EENA to study lots of different heads to get an idea of all the variety and options involved — there’s a lot!


Generally speaking, the horse’s head can be broken into thirds, from the ear “V” to the front canthi of the eye from that point to mid-cheek and from that point to the end of the upper lip, the Eye-Ear Length (EEL). This measurement tends to be more or less consistent among heads though deviations between individuals, breeds, and species can occur. When they do, however, it tends to be in the length of the face rather than the distance from the eye from the ear, but not all the time so pay attention to this.


As for the depth of jowl, a good baseline start is this: It’s often one–half the length of the head from the forehead to the bottom of the jowl (when the mouth is closed).

Similarly, the depth of the muzzle varies quite a bit between breeds, individuals, and species, but a general baseline to start from is that it’s about one–fourth the length of the head. From that we can decrease or increase its depth as needed. 
The width of the muzzle can vary a lot as well, being quite broad or quite narrow, and everything in between. This is also where references photos of a straight on front view are so useful. Nonetheless, we can think of muzzle width as almost one–fourth the length of the head, adding or subtracting width as needed for our sculpture.


Ears vary tremendously between individuals, breeds, and species, even genders as mares tend to have longer, even larger ears. Foals also have relatively larger ears since they haven’t quite “grown into” them yet. Similarly, hemonids, asses, and equine hybrids tend to have larger ears while zebras do as well, who may also have ears of a modified shape. In contrast, some stallions have really small ears on occasion. On that note, some breed standards require a certain size of ear such as Shetlands, Hackney Ponies, and Dartmoors who are supposed to have tiny ears. But a general place to start these explorations is this—many ears tend to be about one–fourth the length of the head from the bottom "V" to the tip. From that, we can lengthen or shorten, or even enlarge them as needed.


Now determining the width of the head, the distance between the brows, can be quite tricky as it varies a lot between individuals, breeds, and species. For example, some Iberians, drafters, and Saddlebreds can be rather narrow whereas others like the Arabian, Morgan, and some ponies can be quite wide. Study lots of reference photos from different angles when determining what you need, ideally with a front on shot of the head to really get a more accurate reading. But if we've done a lot of study, we'll probably have a mental library to make our own judgment to compensate. Even so, a good start is a measurement about one–third the length of the head, between the front of the brows, then we can make it more narrow or wider as the sculpture warrants.


As for the width of the jowls, that varies a lot, too, especially between breeds. For example, Quarter Horses can have very wide, hefty jowls, even extending beyond the width of the teardrop bones. Nevertheless, we can start here: The width of the jowl is almost one–half of the head length then make adjustments as you need to.


The width of the cheeks, the area of the head between the jowls and muzzle, is often comparatively narrow, sometimes markedly so. So to get us started, think of this area as being about one–third the length of the head, adding or subtracting width as needed for our sculpture.


Nostrils can be a tricky thing to sculpt owning to their fleshiness and pliability. They can certainly squinch to become narrow and pinched one moment to then become wide and cavernous the next. So here’s where study and reference photos are particularly helpful, especially since all this needs to be synched to the level of exertion or the mood depicted by our sculpture (since horses also communicate through their breathing such as snorting or nickering). But we can think of a resting nostril as a baseline and even though that varies a lot, we can make a general starter observation: The length of a typical nostril, from the upper “V” to the bottom of the posterior rim (at rest), is about half the depth of the muzzle.


For a baseline, the angle of the mouth can run more or less parallel to the EENA. There’s going to be variations, of course, but this gives us a good place to start our investigations. As a general tendency, too, the corners of the mouth protrude out a bit while the front “corners” of the lower lips tend to protrude a bit past the upper lip but tend to be more depressed inwards at the corner of the mouth. This isn’t always the case, but we can use this tendency to identify variations.


The length of jaw bars from the intersection with the jowls to the start of the chin varies a lot, but a starter baseline is this length can sometimes be close to the EEL. Study this a lot between individuals, breeds, and species to find all the fun options for your sculpture.


The width between the ears, or the crown, also varies a lot between individuals, breeds, and species so study this, too. For instance, generally speaking, Arabians and Morgans can be quite wide in the crown whereas Iberians and some drafters can be relatively narrower. As a basic measurement though from which to make your necessary adjustments is that the crown can be roughly one-third the head measurement from the “V” fold of ear to ear.


One feature of the head that’s wildly variable is the size of the eye — not the orb itself, but the eye as seen with the surrounding fleshy features. So do a lot of study here to find your options. For instance, Arabians and many ponies appear to have bigger eyes than say drafters or Warmbloods due in part to the structure of the surrounding fleshy features and the relative size of the heads. A common mistake when sculpting the eye though, as a function of artistic stylization, is to make the eyes way too big, so knowing the bubble of possibility here can be really helpful to avoid this hiccup.


The Method


So in practice, what I'll do is begin with the shoulder length and build the entire sculpture out from that as a starting point. In this, I'll work on the torso first then the legs, then the neck, and ironically the last part is the head. As for the head, I'll start with the profile, length of the head, and jowls first so I can establish the teardrop bone from which I can build out to the EEL and the EENA in order to place by eyes, ears, nostrils, and mouth. But establishing this sort of sequence helps me stay on track in terms of marrying the whole thing together properly as the piece develops and evolves. Like if I run into proportional trouble, I just go back to the beginning, the shoulder, and remeasure everything out from there in sequence. If I'm doing it right, I can find the systemic error pretty quickly while also formulating a ready strategy for fixing it at the same time.


I do have to admit though that I have one quirk that I have to actively compensate for: I tend to make the back way too short in the armature stage and I've had to always lengthen it by cutting the sculpture in half and resetting the halves further apart. Very annoying! So now I just make the back "extra long" in armature stage and that usually solves the problem from the get go.


And absolutely, I check and recheck my measurements as I work to stay on track because it's so easy to skew things out of proportion as we smoosh around clay or change our minds. The more careful we are as we work though, the less errors we'll have to fix later. Absolutely, regularly check your proportions and reference points.


Just always remember that all proportional and alignment systems are merely guides, not gospel. They're starting points by which to build individual, breed, gender, age, or species-specific variations so keep that in mind as you measure. But we all have to start somewhere, right? So why not have a set system to serve as a baseline by which we can better determine all the variations we'll encounter?


Ending Thoughts


See, once you have a base measurement such as the head length, putting together the rest of the sculpture isn’t so hard! The real trick is just doing your homework ahead of time so you know how to tweak these measurements when it comes time to sculpt. Preparation is key! It’s also important to use these guidelines to study lots of individuals, breeds, ages, species, and the genders so you can develop a hefty mental library of the possible options. Honing your Eye will always serve you well. And just as much, regularly checking your work against these measurements as you sculpt will keep your work from going sideways right under your nose. And above all, practice practice practice! Learn to apply these guidelines as standard operating procedure and pretty soon they’ll become second nature and you’ll find yourself not only having an easier time sculpting proportion, but becoming better able to pinpoint what’s so wonderfully different with all the possibilities! What a great way to get ahead, right?!


Proportion is the heart of beauty.

Ken Follett


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Thursday, February 9, 2023

Keepin' It Real: Ways To Support Artists Beyond The Dollar


Introduction


We all fangirl, right? We all have favorite artists who thrill us to the moon and back, yes? We all have that It Artist who’s an unceasing source of admiration and inspiration for us, don’t we? Of course we do! Probably quite a few actually, given the depth of talent and mad skillz in our genre! Absolutely, it’s a smorgasbord of delights out there and what a lucky, joyful blessing it is to savor this good fortune every day! As such, we may want to show our support for our creative gurus the best we can, to become part of their happy minions who fuel their aspirations throughout their creative journey. When we show our love, we show our deepest, truest respect and enthusiasm and — trust me — there’s nothing more powerful than love to fuel artistic creation!


Being so, we may enthusiastically collect their work, which is fantastic! Showing our support through our buying power is a potent and effective way to support their continued efforts. Indeed, it allows them to continue to do what they do on firmer financial footing. But even so…sometimes we’re just not in a position to do that. Hey — that’s life! Or then again, perhaps we just want to blow even more wind into their sails but aren’t quite sure how to do that. Happily for us, there are actually many more ways you can shore up, encourage, comfort, support, and motivate your favorite artists beyond the dollar, ways that are equally powerful, if not more compelling and motivating! Huzzah! Even better, not only are they free to slather around, but they always work no matter the developmental stage or professional standing of the artist. Really! They’re no-fail, sure-fire go-tos that won’t only billow wind into those sails, they’ll crank out a powerful headwind an artist can ride for years! And it’s one that you created and can recreate every day! So what are some of these magical ways to lend a proverbial hand? Let’s explore them…let's go...


Real Ways To Also Show Your Love


Understand that all artists are works in progress, on their own developmental trajectory at their own pace. That’s to say that if you really want to support an artist, allow them the room to grow, make mistakes and faceplants, and respect their creative space without succumbing to the temptation of gossip, ridicule, mockery, disdain, careless treatment, or criticism. Always — always — show artists great compassion, empathy, and sensitivity no matter how armored up or detached they may seem. Remember — you’re talking about a real human being here, not some objectified thing. Truly, creativity is probably one of the bravest and most frightening reveals of our humanity we can practice, especially when we debut our work to a volatile public, so practice kindness relentlessly with all artists. In turn, you’ll find they may become a lot more courageous in their artistic choices and confident in their skills, and that spells one thing: Greater joy for them in their own studios and so more and better work for all of us. It’s just a good vibe that always results in good things.


Understand that every artist will create problematic pieces at some point in their career— they’re fallible human beings. And every piece has its ugly stages — it’s unavoidable — so just gut it out with them. And, of course, no piece of art is ever perfect, even the most painstaking realistic-seeming piece — only Nature can create perfection. All this is simply the way of it so give artists the grace to blunder, explore, and discover on their own terms. What’s more, be the helping hand that pulls them back up when they fall, because they will crash and burn at some point. Really, a positive comment, a showing of care, reaching out in support at a vulnerable moment can make all the difference. And encourage each little bit of progress, no matter how small because the truth is no step forward is too small. And here's the thing, too, many artists, if not all of them, battle internal demons that try to drag them down — they’re human, remember — so being that encouraging voice in the dark can do far more good than you may realize!


Embrace the reality that everyone starts out as a beginner. Yes — everyone has to start somewhere. That’s just the nature of learning a new skillset — we’re all pretty bad at something before we get good at it. And understand this can be immensely frustrating for some artists who have this Vision in their head that wants out but they don’t have the hands that’ll cooperate yet, creating this terrible conflict in the materials. Then to meet with failure after failure after failure time and again in attaining that Vision can usher in a whole new level of confidence-shattering frustration. But giving them the grace to be a beginner and offering them positive reinforcement every step of the way and embracing their early works as the necessary phases that were needed to get them where they are now are great ways to shore up their motivations. And this applies throughout their creative journey, too, even when they become established, seasoned artists. See, the thing is, the artist is probably also already their own worst critic. So being that outside voice of balance can go farther than you think in keeping them moving forwards with enthusiasm. Helping them to avoid that occasional negative vacuum is far more powerful than many people realize!


Which brings us to: Know that every artist wrestles with self-doubt on some level. This is a biggie. Those inner demons again — they’re noisy and persistent. Know that there’s always an internal battle going on inside every artist to some degree. For some it’s mild and fleeting while for others, it’s an all-out war between their confidence and their self-doubt. Every artist questions themselves and their choices, during the process and upon completion and even years afterwards when they revisit old work. No artist really is ever truly satisfied — that’s the terrible burden of creating art. Martha Graham called it the “divine dissatisfaction,” and it’s absolutely true. No matter how proud an artist may be of their finished piece then, on some level, that dissatisfaction seeped in, if not now then later. But this is partly what drives an artist to progress and explore, a necessary thing that keeps them ever reaching for their potential. But gosh — it can be demoralizing at times. So again, be the balance, that voice of optimism, hope, and encouragement, especially when they’re having a hard time finding that within themselves.


Recognize that everyone sees a piece differently based on their own aesthetic and biases. Absolutely, no one Sees a piece of art exactly the same. And no one Sees a real horse exactly the same, either. Each of us is a unique Universe unto ourselves with a wholly unique way of perceiving reality. We each have our own knowledge bases and knowledge gaps, things we See and things we’re blind to, and we each emphasize things we value and dismiss things we don't. A single piece of art work is many different things to many different people! But that’s the beauty of it, isn’t it? It makes so much more room for so many more ways to enjoy art. It also means that no matter what kind of art it is, there’ll always be someone out there who’ll enjoy it as much as the artist. And that asks for respect and thoughtfulness, doesn’t it? Just because we may like or dislike a piece of art doesn’t mean some else should as well — they should have their own space to react to it. But whatever that reaction, there’s one true Golden Rule — be kind, courteous, and generous with your compassion, particularly if you don’t care for the work. Because that’s part of the respect, right? The artist clearly loves it and someone else clearly loves it, too, so give them the grace to enjoy it without being poisoned by earshot negativity. Indeed, the enjoyment of art is a messy proposition and there’s more than enough room for every style and inspiration. Respect that space. Be accountable.


Follow an artist’s social media outlets and actively engage, share, and “like” their content. The more activity generated by their posts helps them realize they aren’t posting in a vacuum chamber but tells them that people care. For many artists, if there’s anything they outwardly yearn for more than connection and understanding, it’s knowing that people care about their efforts if even just a little. Also, join their mailing lists or such bulletin boards they use to connect to their collectors, and tell friends and family, share their work with others enthusiastically. Plus, write about them and speak about them in podcasts, publications, or other such avenues. Share their work, speak their name, let them know that their efforts are being noticed and valued. See, there’s this, too: Creating art is ultimately a solitary endeavor in a vacuum. Even in a crowded room, that moment when the artist touches tool to piece, that’s instantly narrows into a solitary event. Art is a practice done in solitude. So being active on their social media and sharing it is a great way to motivate them when they “pop back up” by showing them that — yes — you’re paying attention to all the devotion they’re pouring into their work. And trust me, that does a world of wonder for encouraging them!


On that note, at an in-person event, don’t be afraid to introduce yourself and chime in with how much you love their art! Artists love to hear how their art affects you in awesome ways, so let them know! Now yes, it’s easy to be starstruck — I know that feeling all too well, too. But if you can, find a way to take a breath and start a conversation. Keep it short and to the point though, because remember, they’re working (and probably already tired and overstimulated), but getting to know the person behind the name is a great way to inject even more meaning into your enjoyment of their work! Just please don’t be offended if they have to cut the conversation short for working reasons — nothing personal. They’re just being pulled in multiple directions at once, which is exhausting. But trust that your kind words will stick with them…forever. It’s the gift that keeps on giving! Truly, your kind words are the greatest gift you can give to an artist.


Focus on positive reinforcement, focus on the positive rather than attempt to “improve” their efforts with uninvited “helpful criticism.” Trust me, positive reinforcement does 100% more good in the long run than the one uninvited “helpful comment” that can do irreparable damage to their enthusiasm. I’ve known far too many artists who have simply given up on a piece, even creating entirely, all due to this plague of uninvited “helpful critique.” Never — never — be “that guy.” See, you may not know it, but artistic confidence can actually be a house of cards for many artists, no matter how capable, confident, or self-possessed they may seem. The private life of an artist can be a tenuous, delicate place because artistic motivation is a painfully fragile thing. So always — always — wait for a prompt by the artist before offering “critique” and in the meantime, only offer positives. "That's how we're gonna win. Not fighting what we hate, saving what we love," says Rose Tico, Star Wars, The Last Jedi. And there’s always something nice that can be said about any piece, even if it’s just all the love, hard work, and Vision the artist has put into it. 


This brings us to: The Golden Rule — if you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all. Psychiatrists believe we have a “negative bias” hardwired in our brains for evolutionary reasons. This means that an artist can hear kudos all day long, but the one negative or careless comment they hear will outweigh it all and resonate louder than all the praise. Forever. It can’t be helped — it’s an automatic, instinctive reaction. Now they can try to create balance by reminding themselves of all the high-fives and by considering the source, but the truth is, this takes mental gymnastics that can be exhausting. So if you can be louder than the clanking public comments that pound in their head, you can help more than you know in a very tangible way. Be that Jamie Lee Curtis for Michelle Yeoh. And always be painfully careful with your words if they can be heard by the artist, even through the grapevine. Know that one moment of carelessness can get back to them and devastate them, and you could be the reason they quit. Do you really want that? Is voicing your opinion that important? Is making that quip that necessary?


Likewise, understand that the typical artist has thrown their entire being into their piece, their heart, soul, tears, hopes, and their dreams. This makes them inordinately sensitive and prone to taking things personally — because it is personal. Yes, there are those artists who can detach themselves better, but the truth is there’s always a tether, always a conduit straight to their heart which is tender and weaved of their humanity. So always hold their work in gentle hands and generous regard. Again…focus on the positive, always on positive reinforcement or say nothing at all. Creating art is about as personal as it gets and remembering that can do a world of good.


Every so often send them supportive private messages, telling them how much their art means to you and how much joy it brings you. You don’t have to go crazy and blow sunshine up you know what, but every now and again, let them know that their art means a lot to you in wonderful ways. So often artists are sequestered in their studios, contained in a self-induced fishbowl and so even one encouraging, kind message out of the blue can light up their day and keep them energized for weeks!


Share and talk up their work on social media and in social circles. Spread awareness of their skills and talents and openly oogle and admire. There are huge forces of negativity out there as you know, people who fixate on the negatives in our genre’s art. Criticism, carelessness, cruelty, and callousness are their calling cards. And the unfortunate thing is, these people tend to be the loudest, the most vocal, the ones the artists hear the most. So be the rebuttal, be the retort, act as the counterbalance by injecting tactical kindness and strategic enthusiasm wherever you can. On top of that, role modeling positive, supportive behavior can do wonders as well by setting the tone of any given social setting. On that note, that goes for the negativity artists generate within themselves. Truly, artists are their own worst critics. So being a soothing voice of comfort, encouragement, and balance can go farther than you think in dampening the artist's own noisy internal world.


Act in ways that show you understand their confining realities. Absolutely, studio life and running an art business aren’t easy. Honestly, it’s demanding, stressful, full of sacrifices, and loaded with uncertainty in which love, hope, patience, diligence, and hanging onto the dream can be the only things that keep them going. It’s certainly a blessed life — yes — but it does come with its own set of unique challenges, challenges that can crush and bruise. What this means then, practically speaking, is to respect their policies, make payments in a timely manner, give them the professional space when they have to wear the Business Hat, respect their boundaries, and don’t test their parameters unless there’s a genuine hardship involved. And never forget — you may be one person, but they’re dealing with multiple people, each with their own demands. Be patient, be understanding, and be accommodating. Really, many artists are already exhausted on some level and just want to get on with the business of arting rather than the art of business. What does this ultimately lead to? Happier artists who are spending less time in the office and more time in the studio creating exciting work for you!


Be supportive, positive, and curious about any sideline projects or sideways creative pathways an artist takes away from their regular work. Though it may not be something you’re interested in buying or even interested in at all, it’s clearly interesting to that artist, it may even be a heart project. So show your positivity for it or, at the very least, don’t poo-poo it. If you’re not interested, that’s fine, just don’t discourage the artist from following their own path because remember, this is their art and their journey, not yours. Something special is drawing them down that path and that’s to be respected. And this is how innovation happens, too, so the more we encourage it, who knows what’ll pop out!


Remember to repost their work with attribution, with credit, preferably with a website link for others to find their work. This is really important — give due credit where credit is due. This is how an artist’s name grows and it’ll have a tangible effect on their livelihoods and positive experience in the studio and the community.


Give an artist the benefit of the doubt before simply indulging a knee-jerk negative reaction. Consider the reality that you don’t know all the facts, are unaware of all the backstory, and you lack the full totality of that artist’s experience — and you aren’t owed that, either. It’s not the artist’s job to make you feel more comfortable with their lives. So give artists the space to be human, to live their Truth, to make their own mistakes, and to follow their journey in their own way. Practice compassion and empathy at all times, and know that most artists are working in good faith. We all have our reasons, right? So always employ wisdom and practice kindness.


Similarly, role-model positive behavior — be the light, the beacon of positivity and good will in this miasma of negativity out there. See, the truth is that negativity thinks quite highly of itself, it’s arrogant and self-important. This means that negativity is typically very loud and very vocal — it likes to hear itself yap — and so this is what artists usually hear day in and day out, this constant feed of ick. But if more folks role-modeled better behavior, they could help set a new tone in the community, one that can become louder and so filter more into the artistic experience. What does that translate into? A better atmosphere for all of us and improved enthusiasm in the artistic camp which only bodes great things to come!


Never pirate an artist’s intellectual property, never plagiarize their work or use their images without permission. Stealing their work — no matter how much you love it — is never a form of flattery. Real flattery just doesn’t work that way. Indeed, showing due respect for their intellectual property is a great way to truly flatter them. It also protects their livelihoods, their reputations, and also their time as they have less to chase down. And what does that mean? More time in their studio happily creating new work for you!


Change the narrative if you hear someone complain, criticize, pile on, or otherwise indulge in careless and cruel negativity pointed at our arts. There’s so much negativity out there, the Internet just seems to attract those who thrive on discord and damage. But we can shape our community to be something different. Imagine if each of us worked to lift each other up rather than tear each other down. Imagine if the works of artists were greeted with more positives rather than so many negatives. What kind of landscape would that generate for creativity? How many more people would become artists? How many artists who have quit would start up again? How many pieces that were shelved out of fear would be revisited? It’s nice to think about.


Conclusion


So see — there are loads of ways to show your love and support for your favorite artists that not only make them feel better about what they’re doing, but they also make you feel good because it pumps positive energy back into the community. It’s a true win-win! And believe me when I tell you that artists thrive on the positive vibe but wither when pelted with negativity. If we behave in ways and support those things that empower artists then, all we’re really doing is helping our community grow exponentially and in greater diversity. What does that mean? More and better work available to us! So if we want more great work from more people creating it, we hedge our bets with a community bursting at the seams with a vibe that bolsters the confidence, aspirations, efforts, and dreams of all its artists, established, new, and still untapped. We can do this, this is something each of us can practice every day. Each of us can be a light. It’s a conscious decision to embrace the humanity of another person, a person who is laying their humanity bare for you with each piece they create. When they do then, remember the trust they’re placing in you, trust with their heart and soul. It’s a sacred trust and we have the power to do so much good with it. Remember that and keep it real because that’s as real as it gets.


“…For there is always light,

if only we're brave enough to see it

If only we're brave enough to be it”


- Amanda Gorman


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Saturday, June 4, 2022

Capturing The Moment: Some Tips For Catching The Fleeting In Our Art



Introduction

There’s a lot going on in Nature’s Moment, isn’t there? Inertia, physics, textures, action and reaction, happenstance…it’s a lot of chaos. Glorious chaos! But how do we make sense of it all as artists? As realistic artists to boot? As artists we have to decipher, organize, and translate things in a way that allows us to compose a design, and one that’ll work logistically with our media and purposes. But as realistic artists, we have to do so in a way that makes technical, believable sense but still works as an artistic composition. 


Complicating matters, Nature isn’t always as expected! The body can achieve any number of odd, even goofy poses within its limitations and not all of them may be particularly workable with our design goals. Heck — some can even just look downright wrong, like if we actually rendered it as it was, someone would insist that we made a big mistake. Really, sometimes we would need that reference photo to defend our creative choice. But isn’t that amazing?! So many options, so many unexpected choices! Such is the nature of life with all the biology, physics, chance, and emotion encapsulated in any given discreet Moment so take the good with the goofy — because goofy can be good! Sometimes that little bit of awkwardness is just the complement needed to take the piece over the top with realism. Moment just happens and learning to identify, strategize, and infuse it into our art is an art unto itself, but a skill we can learn all the same. But how do we do that?


Well, first of all, what the heck is a “Moment” anyway? Simply put, it’s merely a split second of frozen time, a snapshot of life. That’s all, just a “freeze!” But make no mistake, a lot happens in a Moment! Movement, posture, expression, texture, goo, physics, action and reaction, cause and effect, tensions and relaxations, chance, balancing and counterbalancing, environmental effects…a host of observable things is crammed in there which when included, can take the realism of any piece to a whole new level. Indeed, every Moment is defined by all those little details of life that add so much energy and distinctiveness in the best ways. The pooching of a capillary, a flick of a mane tuft, a twitch of the muzzle, the brightening of an eye, the wrinkling of skin, a distortion of a muscle, a stretching of fascia, the balance shift from one leg to another, a rotation of the spine, flying dirt clumps, a flicker of eyewhites, a swish of the tail…things like this are happening all the time to change our subject and, absolutely, every little bit counts. Going further, there’s also the idea of the “Living Moment" as a reminder that not only is this snapshot energized by life itself, but it exists in a continuum of Moments strung together implying the existence of a pre- and post-history of our piece’s depicted Moment. Based on this then is the narrative, or the overarching storyline, the supportive backstory of our piece that can guide our creative decisions and fuel our inspiration. So it’s between the Moment and the narrative that our piece gains context, something that often lends more depth and emotional weight which can impact the viewer more deeply.


But — yes — all that stuff going on is a lot to take in and decipher. So again, how do we do that? Well, there are some artistic ideas we can apply here to help organize and showcase that busy Moment to make designing our work easier and more effective. Why is that important? Well, by lending structure to our process, we gain the clarity and incremental control needed to account for all that’s in our chosen Moment, and in a way that won’t overwhelm us or cause us to miss anything, either. Plus, when we have structure, we’re asked to pay a bit more attention and so can often pick out more things from our references or life study to infuse into our clay or pigment. When we get good at this, we learn to pick up on a Moment’s goings on automatically — we learn to See better. All those observable little touches will simply jump out at us more, and often as exciting new novelties we can explore in sculpture or paintwork. When we get really good, we can create beyond our reference photo with a more developed mental library, knowledge base, and the confidence to take our design any direction we want. And when we get really super good, we can use artistic tricks to even manipulate and magnify that inspiring Moment to really get the point across in our piece. All of that is the goal. So what are some of these ideas? Well, there’s a few of them and they’re very easy to apply so let’s dive in!


Establish a Baseline

Okay — so we’re looking at a horse and trying to decipher the Moment, but how do we pick all the good stuff out when there’s so much going on? Where do we start? Well, think of a horse in a neutral position: Posture relaxed and standing square, head in a straight, relaxed position, ears forward, and mane the tail down and straight, skin relaxed and goo more or less inactivated, muscles and tendons relaxed, and the expression is calm. That’s our template, our starting point so now anything that changes this neutral pose, tension, balance, texture, expression, and whatnot will be features of that Moment. (Now — yes — the neutral pose itself is a Moment, too! But we have to start somewhere, right?) Make this a habit in our study and the features of any given Moment will begin to really pop out, making our job all the easier and our explorations more curious, fruitful, and fun. In fact, it's not a bad idea to start making a list of all we See as a training exercise, detailing every aspect we can pick out. At first it may be general and span several Moments (like for life study), but do this enough and we can begin to pick out more things within a single Moment and then we're well on our way.


The Camera

Yep, the good ‘ol photograph is a tremendous tool for capturing Moments, by definition. So get a good camera, learn to use it, get out there and snap away, and most of all, really study the photos. Get down into every inch and study, asking questions like “Why is this bit doing this?”, and “How does this bit affect this bit and why?”, “Can I decipher what’s anatomically happening by taking clues from the Moment?”, and “Is this bit relevant to my piece?” With the body, look for cause and effect, passive physics (like with the hair), oddities and deviations from the expected, similarities and patterns between Moments, unique aspects or elements specific to that Moment, and other such details. What’s the expression? The gestures conveying that expression? (Look throughout the body as horses express with their entire selves.) The posture? Even a standing horse is moving and even a calm horse is expressing — every Moment is loaded with fascinating information so pay close attention to what’s captured in that photo. Study the ground, too. What's the footing? And what is it doing in response to the movement? Look, See, all of it. Then try to imagine all that in your media, imagine sculpting or painting it. How would we do that? What techniques are usable here? What tools and methods would we use? Do we need to create new ones to capture a particular element? Do these fun bits here — will they work with our concept? Then study other Moments, i.e. photos — loads of them — to compare and contrast to tease out both the commonalities and the unique features that can add such a fun touch to our piece. And photos can come from anywhere like ads, social media, magazines, stud books, books, calendars — any photograph — so we should absorb as much as we can. In fact, the apt student will study every photo encountered automatically, mining it for information and popping that into a mental library. Indeed, horse pictures truly stop being just pretty horse pictures and horse picture books become treasure troves of data! 


When confident with photos then, take it to life study — get out there and soak up the Living Moment as much as possible with the real deal. Really See the subject, every square inch and study how everything works together, affected by and affecting everything else in a don’t-blink cause-and-effect continuum. There is no better teacher than the horse. And if we can, get up close and personal, really get in there to study — get close. And touch if we can to program it all in by running our hands over areas and feeling textures. In fact, grooming is a tremendously helpful way to program stuff into our noggins! Never pass up an opportunity to groom a horse!


Make all this a regular habit and our mental library and knowledge base will burgeon with options and possibilities but even more importantly, we’ll develop a more open mind about what Nature is truly capable of doing and so our previous “safer,” more conventional expectations won’t corral us so much anymore. And though we’ll become more prone to express our new discoveries, we’ll have those facts to back us up if needed. And all this open-minded discovery feeds our curiosity which further fuels more proactive study, and so it goes. Pretty soon, we’re humming along, able to decipher Moments as second nature as our confidence bumps up a notch and our work levels up! A photo can truly say a thousand words and learning to speak more of them will only make our sentences all the richer and our stories all the more interesting.


Consider the Narrative

We’re inspired to create our pieces for a reason…something within that Moment moves us, energizes us, interests us and so we’re driven to capture that. If we can pinpoint what that is from the get-go, we can actually design our entire piece to not only capture that Moment faithfully, but amplify it even more. Like let’s think on the concept that captured our attention — was it a mood, posture, structure, gesture, movement, idea, event or even something like music, film, or a theater performance? Hey, inspiration can come from anywhere! Or was it an emotion that was strongly attached to our inspiring Moment? Like was it a sense of drama? Spontaneity? Serenity? Romance? Quirkiness? Expression? Power? Aggression? Nobility? Dreaminess? Strength? Speed? It doesn’t have to be just one, either. Maybe there are a few themes at play, no problem! Or perhaps the intricacy or oddness of a pattern or curious tone of a coat or interesting ripple of a muscle is what captured our imagination — that counts, too. Or perhaps there’s an inspired storyline, a backstory, an imagined motivation that’s guiding the construction of our piece’s Moment? It could also be a special personality, a unique character we've met who has enticed our creativity? Few things are more inspirational than a special equine someone we've met.


Whatever the Moment’s inspiration is, lock onto it and create everything from that point and you’ll find that your Vision won’t only remain intact but will now have an intensified power that will really tell a stronger story. In other words, think of the narrative as the starting point to map out the rest of our design choices. In turn, our Moment for our narrative tells the story itself through its components so we're now asked to identify more of those to tell a more complete and compelling narrative, and so it goes.


“Traveling Eye”

The Moment is a complicated place with a lot going on, but not all of it will serve our piece exactly as we might need. To remedy this, there’s the concept of “flow,” of how the eye “travels” over the sculpture as a function of its design. That’s to say, it’s how the eye is drawn from interest point to interest point and where it travels inbetween to get there. Do that cleverly and it’ll all marry together to create a cohesive, “flowing” piece that keeps the eye from “stopping” or “shooting out” while preserving the Moment all the same. Indeed, we want to keep the eye moving around “inside” the confines of the piece as much as possible so the idea here is the continuance of line, form, effect, detail, color, and negative space that pulls it around. As such, we’ll usually end up with something that most people find very attractive, only they can’t quite put their finger on why, it just seems especially engaging all by itself. 


We can also use flow to showcase those portions of the work we really want to highlight, bringing us back to our inspiring Moment. What aspects of our chosen Moment do we want to bring to the fore? Like maybe we really like that expression, so how can we make that centerstage? Or maybe we love the twist of the body and want to bring that to attention. Our imagined backstory needs to be front and center, so how can we develop that with the Moment we're presented? Plus, which aspects can be distilled down to traveling eye concepts? Is there a flick of the mane that’ll turn the eye back to the face? Is the angle of that articulated hindleg a nice foil to the tuck of the head? And hey, look — can we use that flip of the tail to pull the eye back to the body and ultimately back to the face? Take an inventory of all the the features of our references that’ll draw attention where we want it and use those…and those aspects that distract, consider ways to amend them. And that’s the trick here because when it comes to realism, sometimes we simply can’t erase bits of reality since those components need to be there in that certain way due to the nature of the Moment. So then, how do we work around them? Well, we turn them into focal points! Instead of denying ‘em, own ‘em! And then also look for passive things we can tweak (like hair) to manipulate the eye over these areas. Plus, this is where paintwork can come in especially handy because we can use pigment to draw the eye around those portions as well.   


Because — yes — the traveling eye concept works beautifully for painting, too! Indeed, one of the things that many painters will do is doctor color and pattern a little bit to best flatter the piece. For instance, maybe adding that kissy spot is just the ticket to pull attention down to the nicely sculpted muzzle, or maybe an ermine spot will do nicely to pull the eye back to the detailed hind foot. Or perhaps we need to change the border of this tobiano spot just a bit to better balance out with the outstretched foreleg, or maybe those intense pangare effects could use some complementary balancing with some complex mane and tail shadings. Or it could be that the strong dark sooty shoulder we just painted could use a small hind half-sock for visual balance, pulling the eye back and forth; otherwise it’s just going to get stuck on that sooty area. Things like that are just some of the many considerations involved with designing an effective paint job. Now clearly, painters who do this know what they’re doing — they understand color, effect, and pattern enough to tinker with the rules — because while this approach can be an incredibly helpful method, if we don't know the rules, we're going to get into trouble. Really, it's one of the many reasons why a basic understanding of equine color genetics can be so helpful. 


But it doesn’t end there — here’s a fun kicker for the mix: If we infuse a unique oddity into the flow, some bit that just seems novel, we can actually make the piece more memorable by intensifying the narrative of the Moment. Opposites can indeed magnify each other. We can think of these little events as “organic chaos,” that life chaos intrinsic to all Moments that once you start looking, you See it everywhere! So fun! But what in the world is “organic chaos”? Well, it’s everything that life tweaks as a function of every fleeting Moment, the actual components of the Living Moment itself, and it’s sometimes things we don’t conventionally expect. Like it could be the unexpected ripple of flesh, a random flick of a tuft of hair, a curious articulation of a leg, a momentary tweak in expression that adds a nuance, a squishing of wrinkles that seem to have popped up out of nowhere, a crinkling of fascia that creates a momentary texture, a morphing of muscle from motion, and so many others. This is where texture, fleshy morphing, expression, posture, gesture, and hair can really shine, too, along with extra touches in paintwork that add Momentary details. For instance, a flicked ear or swishy tail can go far to complement a standing piece, a cheeky expression using eye whites can help balance out a loud paint job, a novel flick of the mane can add a point of interest that makes the head and neck position so much more accentuated, some loud cat-tracking on the shoulder will pull the eye in a desired direction, or some subtle highlight and shading will place the eye on the nice muscling on the hindquarter. Considerations like that can be stacked and all add up. But organic chaos is also the genetic luck of the dice, the look of genetic randomness in a coat or structure. For example, how the ticking or lacy effects on a pattern look so randomized rather than regimented and orderly, or how an individual may have a particularly eccentric profile or tail carriage. In a very real sense, capturing organic chaos is perhaps the most difficult aspect of realism in either sculpture or paintwork only because the human brain is designed specifically to identify and recreate patterns, the exact opposite job! So be extra mindful of such features in a Moment because they're going to need special attention to get just right.


What’s more, flow can be used to amplify the visual of physics like making sculptures of running horses look like they’re going faster or bucking horses really look like they’re putting in extra effort. Like if we make the mane especially chaotic on a cavorting horse, not only do we add a lot of drama, but we make it look like that horse is really moving spontaneously and energetically. Now imagine that same piece with a more relaxed, subdued mane — quite a different effect, isn’t it? And sometimes we might want that more subdued effect! There is no real right and wrong answer with these things given they remain faithful to structure, physics, and our narrative. The point is then to identify and develop strategic focal points so we can best serve the Moment contained within our narrative, our concept. 


Speaking of which, we can also use flow to “contain the energy” so it feeds back on itself, ramping up the viewer’s engagement even more. For example, we can use tendrils of mane flipping back to direct the eye back to the face, or the tendrils of the tail to shoot the eye back onto the body, strategic patches of color, pattern, or effect that keep the eye shifting between the neck, barrel, and hindquarter, or a leg marking that pulls the eye away from a complicated face to bounce back and forth. The more points that ping pong between each other, the better, because the last thing we want is for the eye to immediately shoot out of the piece altogether or get stuck in one place — surefire ways to lose the viewer’s interest.  


Wrap it all up then and the traveling eye or flow is a unifier, amplifier, magnifier, and organizer of the Moment in your piece. It’s not surprising then that a lack of “flow” can result in a disjointed, awkward effect that visually interferes rather than forwards. It can even turn the viewer off entirely. Haven’t we all seen a piece and thought, “Gosh that bit is really distracting.” That’s when flow has been disrupted and it can really make or break an otherwise great piece.


Negative Space

Our piece isn’t just the sum of its parts…it’s the sum of its non-parts, too! In other words, the empty spaces, the holes between the positive spaces, the actual sculpture, count too. Indeed, there exists in negative space a whole ‘nuther sculpture around our piece which can be cajoled into visual partnership, too. So quite literally, all those empty spaces between the hair tendrils, between the legs, between the neck and the body and all those others are just as important as they relate to the whole picture and each other. 

Here's an example of some general negative spaces and notice how they balance with the mare. For example, note how the head and neck position is mirrored by the negative space between the hind legs or how the big space under the belly helps to counterbalance the flippy tail.


As such, mapping out negative space can be a useful tool for deciphering positive space by problem solving “backwards” and providing a kind of second check system. So study the negative spaces in references and ask, “How does this relate to the horse’s structure or movement or posture?”, and “How does this negative space relate to other negative spaces?”, and “How does this negative space serve the flow of my piece?”, and “How does the shape of this negative space shape my sculpture?” For instance, a big billowing mane is nicely balanced with an active tail not just with the tail shape, but also by the big space left open between it and the body. Or the negative space between the hindlegs serves to balance that wild expression we’ve infused into the eye. Or the negative spaces between mane tendrils can counterbalance active forelegs. See how that works? You can build on each element with negative space to add more interest yet the effects of it are so subtle, the piece never feels forced or contrived. So learn to manipulate negative space well enough and we gain an under-the-radar tool with a big pay off.


Shaping Up

Know it or not, shapes can induce an emotional reaction. It may be unconscious, but we just tend to react differently to a circle, square, triangle, or trapezoid. Knowing how to engineer things using shapes then can really intensify our narrative’s Moment. Wait…what?…how?!


Well, for example, a triangle is a very dramatic shape, isn’t it? This is why it works so well to increase the sense of chaos or drama in the composition. Indeed, base any sculpture on a triangle and — bam — instant flair. On the other hand, a circle tends to instill a more coiled, controlled, intimate, dreamy, introspective feel. It’s also a very classic composition which is why those based on circles tend to have a rather stately, “classic,” even “traditional” feel to them. Likewise, a square tends to heighten steadfast stability, pride, and strength with its straight lines and measured negative spaces. On the other hand, a trapezoid introduces a bit of chaos and drama into the mix, like the triangle, but with a touch of stability, like a square. And we can layer them, too, since the regions of the body can be broken down into shapes as well. Like the circle composition of the tucked head and neck adds sweetness and dreaminess to the solid, stately stance of a standing pose. Then add in a bit of oddity — like twist the head a little bit and laterally bend the neck a snidge around — and BAM, we have instant charm.




Here are some basic illustrations about how shape can influence the impact and help to guide our creative choices. Notice how each one has a different "feel" to it?


For more, designing the piece based on a shape is also a useful method for establishing a “containment field” for the eye that helps to guide all following creative choices. Like if we know our sculpture is based on a circle from the get-go, we can construct traveling eye pathways that work on that circle to intensify that impression. Think about it, a circle, square, triangle, or trapezoid all have different types of containment fields, all which have the potential to serve our Moment in different ways. For instance, maybe tucking the head just a little bit more and adding a curve to a tail tendril can pull the eye in a circle better to reinforce a romantic, dreamy feeling or maybe a flick of an ear and a swish of the mane can add a triangular aspect to lend drama and energy. When we have an overall guiding shape, how we strategize our choices takes on a more organized focus which can really forward our Moment’s narrative. 


What’s the point? Shapes help us organize and prioritize our intentions and are so easily buildable and adaptable, they help us to take our concept where it wants to go. In other words, it’s fun and useful to think beyond simply just what pose we want or just what’s depicted in our reference photo, but how we can forward our chosen Moment through more deliberate choices, and using shapes can be a baseline for this. Definitely, a shape can also be that enigmatic extra “something” that just rings true in ways that lie just outside the viewer’s awareness. The piece just seems so intrinsically “romantic,” or “stately,” or “wild” or whatever, but the viewer cannot pinpoint exactly why — well, it’s probably a shape at work. 


Line ‘em Up

Similar to shape, the use of line can activate the eye and instill more “feel” into the composition, too. For example, straight vertical or horizontal lines emphasize stability, control, and rigidity, while in contrast, diagonals amplify drama, tension, and energy. Also, the use of line can be done with both the sculptural aspects and the paintwork elements, so have some fun with both facets of design. For example, placing a rather up and down lighting strike tobiano markings on a moving piece can “root” it somehow to accentuate mass, control, and steadiness while, conversely, slapping a curvaceous pinto pattern onto that same piece can change it completely by creating a chaotic, energetic, dynamic feeling. We can even move the eye around. Let’s take diagonals, for example, which are really useful for this. Take that very same piece and paint it rich, dark chestnut then place a pale flaxen mane on it, a lovely red tail and pair them with a hind leg sock. The eye is pulled back and forth over the dark body diagonally between the lightness of the mane and the tail and the sock, creating a very active eye that’s constantly moving over the piece. Or take a concept that’s standing square and simply shift a leg diagonally — the front leg back or the hind leg forwards, for example — and we have more energy (through the diagonal line plus a new triangle in negative space) plus a new focal point to build on. So the more things we can line up and get our eye to travel to, the better. The name of the game is visual ping pong in all the piece’s interest points within the containment field of the shape, and deliberately “lining up shots” is a highly effective way to inject more energy into our piece.


This guy helps to illustrate many of the ideas here. For starters, notice how the tail echoes the arch of the neck? The bend of the foreleg, too? How the dapples pull the eye away from the face and towards the tail, to bounce back again? How the ermine spot on the right hind leg, the one under the belly, seems to "root" him somehow, making that foot seem like it's really carrying weight? How the diagonal set of the head position, right fore leg, and right hind leg lend energy and a bit of drama as opposed to being straight up and down? See how the turned ear creates a subtle curve with the right fore leg that sisters the curve created by the hindquarter and right hind leg? What else can you see?


Volley Back

On that note, we can use posture or the passive physics of the mane, tail, and feathers to bounce the eye back into the piece for another round of activation. Like if our eye tends to shoot out of the piece in one area — sometimes it can’t be helped because of realism’s believability confines — we can use the position of the head and neck or leg, or the curvature of a hair tendril to loop the eye back into the piece. Really, sometimes just a flicked tendril of mane will do it which is why, in particular, the hair is such a powerful tool for traveling eye manipulation. Put it to work — it’s fun and fascinating! Point being, pay attention to any areas where the eye tends to shoot out of the piece and try to counteract that with other design choices. We usually want to contain the energy of the depicted Moment and we help to do that by volleying any loose energy back into the piece with pinpointed, strategic tweaking.


Patchwork Strategy

Using areas of detail or color can also work to pull the eye around the piece to lend both cohesion and contrast for some drama that just seems so natural, it seems invisibly executed. Really, a splash of color here or a dollop of detail there can really work wonders to tease the eye around the piece without it ever knowing it’s being played. Because as we designed certain areas to be highly detailed like the face, the shoes, the hair, the ticking, we also designed areas that attract the eye, so put these areas to work! Use them to pull that eye around. Like a common mistake is to make a highly detailed head but relatively little attention paid to the rest of the body. The thing is, body regions should have a comparative amount of detail to both make for a cohesive piece and to keep the eye from inevitably stopping at the most detailed area. In particular, we have our work cut out for us with the face which is naturally highly detailed, and so we’re naturally, even automatically drawn there as a visual species. So as a sculptor or painter, we should be strategizing ways to pull the eye away from the face and back over the piece because this will inevitably create an active system since we’re typically always drawn back to the face. For this with paintwork, for example, dapples, effects, markings, and patterns can be used effectively to move the eye around. Just as effective though is the use of strategic color blocking or intensity of color on targeted areas of the body to activate the eye and counterbalance other focal points. Take a dark sooty bay, for example, those patches of brighter reds on that dark body act as magnets that pull the eye over the piece so don’t discount the power of your palette! Or perhaps a star and hind sock will pull the eye diagonally across the piece but then add a tuft of uplifted mane, and the eye is now traveling in a loop, point to point to point, between those three markers. There are also tricks we can use like placing a sock on a foot that’s placed farthest out from the body to really draw the eye back there for more drama whereas placing that sock on a leg that’s more under the body will place the eye in a more centered spot and so lend a greater sense of stability and weight. Or with sculpture, for instance, that patch of wrinkles will be an instant focal point so think about a strategic touch to another part of the piece, or even something in the paintwork that will create a volley-back dynamic. Or that strong expression we sculpted will do even better with a complementary counterbalance such as a flicked tail or active hind leg. It all depends on our goals for the piece so play with things to see how they all work to shift the energy of the Moment in the composition.


This flashy fellow also illustrates a lot of the principles discussed here. Note how the dappled sooty shoulder and neck on the front half counterbalance the loud pattern on the back half? How the flamboyant flip of the tail balances with the arch of the head carriage and flippy mane and the fore legs? How the shape angulation of the right hind leg mirrors that of the left fore leg? How the bay patch on the flank balances with the white patch on the triceps? How the big blaze on the face draws the eye which is then bounces to the big patches of coat color on the hindquarter and back again across the body? How the flow of the spots from the flank goes up to the crest to take us back to the head to then be draw to the left fore leg and back to the flank? What else can you find?


Now granted, sometimes we can’t design every little thing about a piece because realism dictates certain things have to be a certain way. Like we can’t design like Dali or Picasso and put body parts in fantastical positions that serve an abstracted composition. We have rules. But this is precisely where knowing what to strategically tweak and how we can tweak it can be so helpful. Really, the rules are there as definite guides, but don’t forget just as Nature plays with them, so can we!


Tracking 

But don’t stop there! We can layer all these components together to create complex “eye-tracking” pathways over each other, increasing the complexity, intensity, impact, and sophistication of our depicted Moment. Hey, draw in these lines on a photo of our piece and it might look like a ball of yarn! That’s good! Absolutely, the more the eye is drawn from point to point, detail to detail, space to space, the more the eye participates with the piece and so the more engaging our composition. Really, sometimes folks don’t know quite what appeals to them about a sculpture, but chances are it’s the subtle engineering that went into every aspect of the piece that helps to draw them in and hold their attention. 


Everything Counts

Sometimes it doesn’t take much to make or break a piece. A simple angulation, little detail, or perhaps a use of color can either add the final perfect touch or the touch that distracts. Let’s say you’ve created a lovely sculpture of a galloping mare in the extended phase of the gallop, designing her to accentuate a sense of speed and energy, and have painted her a lovely deep-shaded bay. Yet you’ve neglected to tone down that orange undercolor on the hip area there and it has no counterbalance and so the eye is continually drawn to it, away the rest of her wonderful aspects. Because the eye can’t ignore it and gets stuck there, it becomes a distraction, a visual nuisance. So what could we have done in the sculpture or paintwork to add counterbalance? Everything builds on everything else. Or for another example, you’ve created a beautiful piece based on a circle, designed to exude drama and romance. However, that hindleg is placed a bit too outside the line of the circle which is stopping the eye and compromising its flow. But just pull that hindleg a bit more forwards and the problem is fixed and we have a more flowing, engaging piece all of a sudden. Every aspect counts. 


When it comes to the details contained in our Moment, it can be handy to have some of those elements work together fluidly to create a more flowing, cohesive piece even if we have to tweak a thing or two. We are talking about art, after all. Indeed, if we can tweak an element or two to forward the overall impression of the sculpture in some way, we can engage the viewer more all while reinforcing a more compelling story.


Another Point of View

Similarly, sometimes we need to See things from another perspective to tease out what’s actually going on in a Moment and we can do this with some simple artistic exercises that give us a brand new viewpoint or "fresh eye."


For one, we can create a situation that entirely removes distraction so we can really focus on what we’re looking at. We do this by creating an actual kind of picture frame that filters everything else out when studying references, and we simply use a plain sheet of printing paper. For this, take a sheet and cut out a 1” square window in the middle. Doesn’t have to be perfect, we just want a window of about 1x1” big. (The smaller the reference photo, the smaller the window.) Then lay that sheet on top of your reference photo and study only those things inside the window, slowly going over the entire image. What can we see? Texture. Delineations of muscles, tendons, and ligaments? Color, pattern, detail and effect? Shapes and curves? Concavities and protrusions? Details like wrinkles, veins, capillaries, nerves? Little fleshy smooshy fun? The more we can pick out, the better because, in fact, there are loads of things packed into every inch, isn’t there? Things we maybe didn’t see before because we were distracted by the whole? But make this an artistic exercise with every reference photo and we train our Eye to really start picking out things all by itself as we learn to See with more acuity. 


For another exercise, invert the image in a photo editing program so the light areas become dark and the dark areas become light. This is especially useful for pattern interpretation, and especially with dappling or appaloosa spots because this technique really makes them stand out in a fresh new way. But it works well for deciphering muscles, legs, and facial structure, too. Basically, by seeing a feature with a fresh eye like this, that shock to the system reorients our objectivity and so we’re often able to pick out additional information we couldn’t See before. 


For another, we can reverse our references and an image of our piece to See things backwards, which is another handy way to regain an instant fresh eye. Our eye can become accustomed to what it's seeing and so will miss things it otherwise might have caught, so switching things up like this can go far to recalibrate its ability to pick things out again. Honestly, it's pretty uncanny how different something can look backwards! 


Similarly, another useful trick is to regularly look at our piece “reversed” in a hand mirror to give us an instant fresh perspective. Just periodically stopping and checking our work this way can help us problem solve on the fly with an instant fresh eye. As mentioned, our Eye can become habituated to a certain viewpoint, a certain way of Seeing our piece, and so many issues can become invisible to it over time. No worries — it’s normal, a part of the process, so we just work around it and using a handmirror like this is a particularly effective trick. Boom — things invisible to us before can become really obvious and we’re left wondering, “How did I not see that?!” Try this with references, too! It can really help us See things in a new way and even pick out features of a Moment we might have missed otherwise.


Another trick is to shrink down or enlarge our reference photo to the size of the sculpture we’re working on to get a better sense of scale, something particularly helpful with painting patterns, dapples, and effects as well as for facial, wrinkle, or detail sculpting where scale can be a big concern. Scale is everything when it comes to realistic equine art — in fact, we can argue that achieving perfect scale is all that we’re really striving for. That our job is simply a study of accurate scale, of proportion. Think about it, get everything put together in perfect scale and we automatically have ourselves a finished, nicely done piece, right? This is why if one aspect is out of scale, it becomes a distraction, doesn’t it? It’s a sink that traps the eye there, making it a quick way to prevent the brain from suspending reality, too. So if we want to forward our Moment best, keep things in as perfect scale as possible, even if that means mimicking features or effects rather than literally translating them (like on the smaller scales). For instance, the hair by hair technique sure is pretty and can be immensely convincing for certain effects, but it can easily go out of scale if we aren’t ever-vigilant. Or focusing too intently on sculpting the eye or a nostril often causes it to become too big, or the same thing can happen to the entire head. Or not being careful with the nail heads we apply to the hooves can cause them to grow too large and blobby rather than staying tiny and rectangular. Or perhaps we lose sight of the big picture and so our muscles become too enlarged or bulky, well beyond what our references show. The point is that what we intently focus on has a tendency to grow in scale, so paying attention to scale at every step is a highly effective way to ensure the realism of our Moment.


Sculpt or paint upside down, again trying to shock the system with a new perspective. This technique is particularly helpful because it abstracts everything and forces our brain to stop anticipating things and to just render what’s there. This can be important at times because the brain is absolutely fixated on its preferred formulas, regimentation, and habits and will always unconsciously default to them if we aren’t careful. Now all this is just fine because these things are sometimes necessary for realism, right? We have biological patterns we’re tasked with duplicating on every piece, yes? And our habits feed our artistic style, that special “look” to our portfolio that makes our work so distinctive and lends such diversity to this art form. And sometimes regimentation is necessary for certain aspects of structure or coat effects. But at the same time, we do need to break beyond them at key times to really capture the organic chaos of our Moment more accurately. So definitely, we can’t be too married to our formulas, regimentation, and habits; otherwise we’re going to miss all that. On the other hand though, if we get confused in an area, just turning everything upside down usually makes deciphering things easier and more effective because our expectations are taken out of the equation. "If in doubt, turn it about!" So if we’re tackling a particularly complex area, think about rendering it upside down first for an immediate refreshed point of view. We can always turn it right side any time, but starting out upside down can be a handy trick for tricky areas. Indeed, our expectations can really hose up our efforts and can even hold us back which is why maintaining an open mind with as little expectation as possible is so key for rendering realism. Nature just throws too many curveballs! It’s so organic, adaptive, and loosey-goosey with some of its rules that if we aren’t open to all that, we can miss all that great stuff!


Conclusion

Nature always provides a multitude of little gifts for our work if we learn to See them, and it’s the Moment that encapsulates all those fleeting little treasures into a tidy “present” that can be so fascinating and inspiring, laden with new options and possibilities. Nevertheless, both the sculpturework and the paintwork should stand alone as well as work together in all this. In other words, the “naked” sculpture should be so well designed, it doesn’t need paintwork, that it could simply be left unpainted and still work beautifully. Likewise, the paintwork should stand alone on its own merits, too, and work to enhance rather than distract or compromise the overall impression. These two need to be worlds unto themselves before they work together, but — yes — work together they can, and beautifully! So feel free to layer all these ideas together between the sculpture and paintwork which can be designed as simple or as complex as we want them to be, so have at it! Really, no matter how we put it all together, providing some continuity for the eye will ramp up the appeal of any piece. 


Because, wow — yes — there’s a lot going on in any given Moment. It’s a lot to take in, process, and incorporate so we have to be meticulous, observant, and above all, curious. Truly, a healthy dose of curiosity in everything we do instantly injects our efforts with more potency and intent so slather that stuff around! When we always make one of our goals that of exploration and discovery, we aren’t only going to pick out more Moment fodder, but progress a lot faster doing it. So make it a kind of treasure hunt to pick out a Moment’s features to then strategize them. It’s amazing what we’ll find once we start looking and fascinating to see just how much it can improve our work.


Because it’s our eye that first draws us into a piece and once attracted, it likes to participate. Adding in features of the Moment does a lot for this as well as jacking up the believability of our piece. Yet if we go further and use them strategically, we can really imbue our piece with a lot more impact to engage the viewer more deliberately and dynamically. The point is, with a little bit of forethought, we can design many elements of our piece to capture not only more of the Moment's reality but also in a way that grabs the viewer and holds on. Sure, working on a whim is super fun — never stop doing that — but injecting a bit of strategy here and there can be even better for adding interest factors with purpose.


Wrap it all up then and the trick the Moment actually gifts us with is the power to make informed, credible decisions from a bigger menu of viable possibilities. And that’s the name of the game in realism: Ferreting out options. Why? Well, it helps us avoid stylistic habits or formulaic interpretations that can cause our portfolio to plateau or homogenize. If the Moment is different every second, so must be our work, right? If Nature deviates from the expected formula at times, so must we, yes? The Moment also encourages us to remain students with open minds and risk-taking hearts, resistant to conventional or “safe” expectations, including our own. It frees us from the confines of anatomy charts and diagrams and especially from other peoples’ rigid idea of what’s “right,” allowing our inspiration to go where life itself leads. We also gain the ability to mine more information from our references and life study, always a welcome outcome by making our work more realistic and accelerating our progress. Absolutely, the more we See, the more lifelike and immediate our work. We also gain confidence and invigorated curiosity because we’re able to make more expansive and conscious creative choices rather than simply parroting what we half-see. This, in turn, gifts us with the freedom to take our piece in any direction we want but with the authority to back it up, and that’s an incredibly freeing place to create. But perhaps most of all, sculpting or painting becomes an exploration, a new opportunity for discovery of all the secrets a Moment holds for us, compelling us to dig deeper into it, our knowledge base, our skillset, and ourselves. Make that a mantra and every Moment will become a gifted meditation, one that will steadily and surely inspire our skills forward. There is always more to See in a Moment and so always more to infuse into our work  what a wonderful proposition!


Moment by Moment, we develop a body of work because that’s all we ever sculpt or paint, right? The Living Moment. That’s it. But look what power it has! Look at all the possibilities already created and countless more still to come! It’s nuts and nuts awesome! Truly, we can focus on a single subject our entire life and never even touch the tip of the iceberg! How fabulous is that?! Every Moment is a singular dollop of time, laden with its own unique beauty, profundity, magic, and possibility worthy of our attention. So slow down, stop, pay attention — it’s good for you and your art. Take the time to notice all the gems nestled in every Moment and our storytelling will be all the richer for it. When we start to consider what a Moment is truly offering then, we not only gain more subject fodder, but even better, a deeper appreciation of the present and through this, perhaps a deeper connection to our subject. Because that’s what being an equine artist is really about — telling an equine story, and the Moment shows us so clearly how beautiful, intriguing, and complex a story that can truly be.


“Always hold fast to the present. Every situation, indeed every moment, is of infinite value, for it is the representative of a whole eternity.”

— Johann Wolfgang von Goethe


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